Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Why would you not sight in at 100 yards?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Gcan" data-source="post: 1631804" data-attributes="member: 102867"><p>Cranking v Shooting. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Case in point: Many years ago I was hunting a nice moose in Nuffy. My gun was probably zeroed for 300 yards at the time. The moose was constantly moving thru scrub between 250 and 400. We were moving as fast as we could but he was nose into the wind and was farther away every time we saw him. The quick glimpses did not give me much time to set up a shot. And he was far enough out that a rest was required. I was using sticks, which setting up on a bog is a challenge of its own. </p><p></p><p></p><p>The Moose finally stepped out into a clearing about 400 yards out that we hadn't noticed but it was 20 yards wide. I had just enough time to know he was within the 300WM's point blank range. High center hold and done. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Yes, I turn a lot of turrets for tactical shoots and also when I hunted truly long range. Im reading all the comments on turning turrets as the best method, but there are some important real world considerations missing in the discourse. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Generally, if we are shooting 500 plus or at very small spots then turret cranking is a must, however I'm assuming we are discussing hunting situations here. And most of those are under 500 yards. </p><p></p><p></p><p>So lets dissect a typical shot scenario. </p><p></p><p></p><p>You spot the animal. You glass the animal. You determine to shoot the animal. If the critter has read the script he stands perfectly still for you while you range him and start turning your Elv Turret. Right? Not! This is what everyone is leaving out and why I set zeros at long distances. You must also find the time to get into a shooting position, find or build a rest and settle in, check the wind. After all if you are going to crank in the exact elevation you must also then dial in the windage right? No? Then why bother with the elevation? And then, if the animal is still on script and stationary you must make the shot. You wonder if you dialed in the correct dope. And animals seldom read the script. They are seldom stationary for more than a few seconds. </p><p></p><p>The vast vast majority of my trophy animals were stumble on or animals I saw and stalked. I can only imagine how many I would not have harvested if Id taken all the time to do all of the above. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Instead I ranged them, checked the wind, found a rest and shot them if they were within my point blank distance. I wasn't worried bout whether or not I hit my dope numbers or messed up my clicks. The only thing in my mind was the shot. I hadn't introduced any doubts into my mind. I knew the zero. And I made the shot. </p><p></p><p>You want to shoot paper or steel crank away. But there is a reason Horus type reticles are becoming so popular. They are faster. Period. Spend $10,000 on a hunt and tell me set up time or shot window doesn't matter. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Practice Practice Practice. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Know the zero for every hash/stadia mark. You might find that with a 300 yard zero your hash zeros at 15x are 333-378-402-447-489-522 etc. </p><p></p><p></p><p>This knowledge even sometimes allows you to use a bracket method where you can often have two hash marks on the target at the same time. You know the bullet will impact between the two. </p><p></p><p></p><p>The point is there are lots of ways to use your scope in real-world (not theoretical) situations that are just as accurate as cranking away. They are light years faster and don't require moving turrets and don't introduce any subconscious self-doubt. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Know your equipment and Practice Practice Practice.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Gcan, post: 1631804, member: 102867"] Cranking v Shooting. Case in point: Many years ago I was hunting a nice moose in Nuffy. My gun was probably zeroed for 300 yards at the time. The moose was constantly moving thru scrub between 250 and 400. We were moving as fast as we could but he was nose into the wind and was farther away every time we saw him. The quick glimpses did not give me much time to set up a shot. And he was far enough out that a rest was required. I was using sticks, which setting up on a bog is a challenge of its own. The Moose finally stepped out into a clearing about 400 yards out that we hadn’t noticed but it was 20 yards wide. I had just enough time to know he was within the 300WM’s point blank range. High center hold and done. Yes, I turn a lot of turrets for tactical shoots and also when I hunted truly long range. Im reading all the comments on turning turrets as the best method, but there are some important real world considerations missing in the discourse. Generally, if we are shooting 500 plus or at very small spots then turret cranking is a must, however I’m assuming we are discussing hunting situations here. And most of those are under 500 yards. So lets dissect a typical shot scenario. You spot the animal. You glass the animal. You determine to shoot the animal. If the critter has read the script he stands perfectly still for you while you range him and start turning your Elv Turret. Right? Not! This is what everyone is leaving out and why I set zeros at long distances. You must also find the time to get into a shooting position, find or build a rest and settle in, check the wind. After all if you are going to crank in the exact elevation you must also then dial in the windage right? No? Then why bother with the elevation? And then, if the animal is still on script and stationary you must make the shot. You wonder if you dialed in the correct dope. And animals seldom read the script. They are seldom stationary for more than a few seconds. The vast vast majority of my trophy animals were stumble on or animals I saw and stalked. I can only imagine how many I would not have harvested if Id taken all the time to do all of the above. Instead I ranged them, checked the wind, found a rest and shot them if they were within my point blank distance. I wasn’t worried bout whether or not I hit my dope numbers or messed up my clicks. The only thing in my mind was the shot. I hadn’t introduced any doubts into my mind. I knew the zero. And I made the shot. You want to shoot paper or steel crank away. But there is a reason Horus type reticles are becoming so popular. They are faster. Period. Spend $10,000 on a hunt and tell me set up time or shot window doesn’t matter. Practice Practice Practice. Know the zero for every hash/stadia mark. You might find that with a 300 yard zero your hash zeros at 15x are 333-378-402-447-489-522 etc. This knowledge even sometimes allows you to use a bracket method where you can often have two hash marks on the target at the same time. You know the bullet will impact between the two. The point is there are lots of ways to use your scope in real-world (not theoretical) situations that are just as accurate as cranking away. They are light years faster and don’t require moving turrets and don’t introduce any subconscious self-doubt. Know your equipment and Practice Practice Practice. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Why would you not sight in at 100 yards?
Top