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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Why am i shooting to the left
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<blockquote data-quote="Teri Anne" data-source="post: 2351838" data-attributes="member: 118816"><p>As you mentioned physical attributes vary among people, but those are all compensated for in the selection of the rifle, the stock and mounting of the scope. I have had the opportunity to mount probably two or three hundred scopes during my life time. Each scope mount is finely tuned to the individual who owns the rifle. One cannot just slap on a base, rings and put the scope on them and expect proper operation of the scope and constant bullet impact shot to shot. Once the mounting system is selected the base is installed and set to the manufacturers recommended screw torque setting. Rings are selected to be as low as possible to the bore without hitting the scope touching any part of the rifle. In many cases to accomplish this Iron sights have to be removed. With some types of mounts the rings have to be precision aligned front to rear to ensure that there is no bending of the scope as it is tightened into the ring. Once this is accomplished the scope rings are snugged up so that the scope can be moved to adjust for eye relief and to be level. Eye relief is carefully set so that when the rifle is pulled up into the shooting position that the parallax is based upon that individual's placement of the firearm to the shoulder. Once the correct eye relief (set eye relief does change with different positions) then the scope is leveled, checked so that the reticle is perfectly aligned straight up and down with the center of the bore. At that time when everything is set the rings are torqued, usually between 16 and 18 inch pounds so as not to crush the outer case of the scope. The scope is then bore sighted, I use laser bore sighters to adjust the alignment with the rifle barrel and center of the reticle. At this point the eye relief is rechecked and the bore sight confirmed with the owner of the rifle to ensure all meets with their approval. This results in the rifle able to hit paper at 25 yards as the starting point when sighting in the rifle. Mounting a rifle scope properly is a complex and time consuming procedure in order to do it right. Now comes the second part of the equation, the shooter actually knowing how to shoot a rifle with a scope, which I can safely say that most shooters do not. Ask the <strong>average rifle owner</strong> what parallax is or what MOA is or how many clicks equal an inch at 100 yards and they probably can't answer the question. If the scope is properly mounted and the eye is perfectly aligned with the center of the ocular lens/eyepiece, the reticle is accurately placed on the target and the process of shooting the bullet is done correctly the bullet will hit precisely as aimed (barring atmospheric conditions that affect bullet flight) If shooter B again aligns his eye with the center of the ocular lens/eyepiece and adjusts to ensure that there is no distortion due to parallax, centers the reticle on the target and fires the rifle, the bullet will, again barring atmospheric conditions go in or close to the exact same point. I have proven this over and over with my rifle students who all start out shooting my rifles with my zero. If they don't hit close to where my zero is then we talk about it and what they did wrong and how to correct it. Eventually, and how long it takes varies with the individual. Once they are able to do that we move on to their rifles which starts out with confirming that the scope is mounted correctly, if not we re-mount it and they go about re=zeroing the rifle. When they are done setting their scope zero I check it by firing a 3 shot group out of their rifle. 90% or more of the time my group is within 1 MOA of theirs. At that point anyone <strong>who knows how to shoot a scope and make minor adjustments in eye relief can shoot that rifle.</strong> </p><p>You may want to watch these videos to learn how to zero your rifles. </p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+sight+in+a+rifle+scope&&view=detail&mid=BBC5F34A4737C05DAE86BBC5F34A4737C05DAE86&rvsmid=CA562C7341A049339807CA562C7341A049339807&FORM=VDQVAP[/URL]</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+sight+in+a+rifle+scope&&view=detail&mid=CAA649FA7BF20C85C898CAA649FA7BF20C85C898&&FORM=VDRVRV[/URL]</p><p></p><p>You may note that in these videos they seem to like close enough for hunting. Well close enoughfor hunting at 100 or 200 yards is nowhere close when you extend the range. When I zero a rifle I like to shoot a 3 shot group at 1 MOA or preferably less. 1 MOA (1 inch) at 100 yards will still equal </p><p>1 MOA but that 1 MOA equals a 10 inch group, which may or may not hold into the proper bullet placement on the animal you are shooting at that range.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Teri Anne, post: 2351838, member: 118816"] As you mentioned physical attributes vary among people, but those are all compensated for in the selection of the rifle, the stock and mounting of the scope. I have had the opportunity to mount probably two or three hundred scopes during my life time. Each scope mount is finely tuned to the individual who owns the rifle. One cannot just slap on a base, rings and put the scope on them and expect proper operation of the scope and constant bullet impact shot to shot. Once the mounting system is selected the base is installed and set to the manufacturers recommended screw torque setting. Rings are selected to be as low as possible to the bore without hitting the scope touching any part of the rifle. In many cases to accomplish this Iron sights have to be removed. With some types of mounts the rings have to be precision aligned front to rear to ensure that there is no bending of the scope as it is tightened into the ring. Once this is accomplished the scope rings are snugged up so that the scope can be moved to adjust for eye relief and to be level. Eye relief is carefully set so that when the rifle is pulled up into the shooting position that the parallax is based upon that individual's placement of the firearm to the shoulder. Once the correct eye relief (set eye relief does change with different positions) then the scope is leveled, checked so that the reticle is perfectly aligned straight up and down with the center of the bore. At that time when everything is set the rings are torqued, usually between 16 and 18 inch pounds so as not to crush the outer case of the scope. The scope is then bore sighted, I use laser bore sighters to adjust the alignment with the rifle barrel and center of the reticle. At this point the eye relief is rechecked and the bore sight confirmed with the owner of the rifle to ensure all meets with their approval. This results in the rifle able to hit paper at 25 yards as the starting point when sighting in the rifle. Mounting a rifle scope properly is a complex and time consuming procedure in order to do it right. Now comes the second part of the equation, the shooter actually knowing how to shoot a rifle with a scope, which I can safely say that most shooters do not. Ask the [B]average rifle owner[/B] what parallax is or what MOA is or how many clicks equal an inch at 100 yards and they probably can't answer the question. If the scope is properly mounted and the eye is perfectly aligned with the center of the ocular lens/eyepiece, the reticle is accurately placed on the target and the process of shooting the bullet is done correctly the bullet will hit precisely as aimed (barring atmospheric conditions that affect bullet flight) If shooter B again aligns his eye with the center of the ocular lens/eyepiece and adjusts to ensure that there is no distortion due to parallax, centers the reticle on the target and fires the rifle, the bullet will, again barring atmospheric conditions go in or close to the exact same point. I have proven this over and over with my rifle students who all start out shooting my rifles with my zero. If they don't hit close to where my zero is then we talk about it and what they did wrong and how to correct it. Eventually, and how long it takes varies with the individual. Once they are able to do that we move on to their rifles which starts out with confirming that the scope is mounted correctly, if not we re-mount it and they go about re=zeroing the rifle. When they are done setting their scope zero I check it by firing a 3 shot group out of their rifle. 90% or more of the time my group is within 1 MOA of theirs. At that point anyone [B]who knows how to shoot a scope and make minor adjustments in eye relief can shoot that rifle.[/B] You may want to watch these videos to learn how to zero your rifles. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+sight+in+a+rifle+scope&&view=detail&mid=BBC5F34A4737C05DAE86BBC5F34A4737C05DAE86&rvsmid=CA562C7341A049339807CA562C7341A049339807&FORM=VDQVAP[/URL] [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+sight+in+a+rifle+scope&&view=detail&mid=CAA649FA7BF20C85C898CAA649FA7BF20C85C898&&FORM=VDRVRV[/URL] You may note that in these videos they seem to like close enough for hunting. Well close enoughfor hunting at 100 or 200 yards is nowhere close when you extend the range. When I zero a rifle I like to shoot a 3 shot group at 1 MOA or preferably less. 1 MOA (1 inch) at 100 yards will still equal 1 MOA but that 1 MOA equals a 10 inch group, which may or may not hold into the proper bullet placement on the animal you are shooting at that range. [/QUOTE]
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