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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Which method? (barrel and action blocks)
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<blockquote data-quote="Steve Shelp" data-source="post: 22473" data-attributes="member: 22"><p>Hey Dave,</p><p> See my comments below your questions.</p><p></p><p><strong>That is interesting, you said they shorten up and allow a small space between the throat and the case when fired?</strong></p><p>This brass (which is typically when a blowing shoulder out) shortens up .025-.030" on the first firing. This creates a little bit of exposed neck area from the 2nd firing on. I never had this problem before until coming back and using R25 starting this spring. It slowly built up enough until a round wouldn't chamber. Essentially the same symptoms of having a case that is too long for a chamber and needs trimming.</p><p> I used H1000 almost exclusively until I had it rechambered and then R25 came alive, so I started using it again. R25 is known for some carbon build up in certain larger chamerings. </p><p></p><p><strong>Are you using fireformed and neck sized case only? Do you turn your necks? </strong></p><p>yes it's fireformed in my chamber, but as mentioned above it shortens up on the first firing only. Yes, it is a tight neck and the necks are turned for .0015" overall clearance.</p><p></p><p><strong>How or will, you solve this problem? </strong></p><p>The "problem" is that when moving a shoulder forward in any case forming it will shorten up somewhat. Now that I'm aware of the R25 carbon buildup issue, I'll simply make sure I concentrate on this area with a brush and carbon cleaner to keep it out of there. Or go back to H1000. But this R25 is working so good I hate to change. </p><p> I can't just get a shorter reamer because then you would have to trim the case to get them into the new shorter chamber and the case will still shorten up the same .030" from that point. So I'll end up with the same .030" gap, it will jsut be in a shorter chamber.</p><p></p><p><strong>have you tried any of the new Rutumbo powder yet?</strong></p><p>no I haven't. haven't heard back any reports on it yet either. Hear anything yourself?</p><p></p><p><strong>The Nesika action is 1.7 in dia, the barrel is 1.7 in dia (+/-.005), hopefully they will meet up and ill use Ti devcon to bridge the gap if their is any. If the barrel is smaller I will probably go ahead and grind it betweeen centers until the action matches the barrel. If its the other way around the barrel being bigger I will probably turn the first 10 inches forward of the chamber to match the action dia and then blend the diff at the 10 in mark.</strong></p><p>ok. that gives me a good picture of what you have in mind. I don't think you will need to go that far if you just block the barrel only and leave the action diameter as is and free flaot it off the back. Numerous guys have floated Rem 700 actions off from the back of blocked 30-&gt;40" barrels and don't have a problem. The Remington tenon threads are 1 1/6" dia I beleive and that action is 1.350 dia. So if it doesn't give a problem with a 1.350" dia Remington the bigger Nesika 1.7" dia is even better. That's another advantage of a blocked barrel, is you don't need all of that meat in the action. As a matter of fact some guys prefer the light Remington for this application because of less weigh and just epoxy a magazine follower into the bottom of the action. This should save you a lot of machining time/work. Plus then your action will be original, in case you ever wanted to use it for another project or sell it. Just thinking out loud.</p><p></p><p>[B}I will try and email you with the drawing tonight. [/B]</p><p> I'll be home tonight but will be leaving before dawn and returning late on Sunday for a match up in VA. If I don't hear from you tonight, I'll respond when I get back.</p><p></p><p><strong> My orginal question about the thread dia of the action being ok hasnt really been addressed as to whether or not that thread dia is sufficent for my application.</strong> you should be jsut fine by blocking the barrel only as mentioned above.</p><p> I see your from middle Georgia. I would like to extend an invitation to come up to NC 1,000yd club on June 15th (our next match) and I'll introduce you to fellas that have current barrel blocked rifles and you can talk with them a see their setups first hand if that would help you. Let me know.</p><p></p><p>good luck on your project no matter what you decide to do.</p><p></p><p>Steve</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Steve Shelp, post: 22473, member: 22"] Hey Dave, See my comments below your questions. [B]That is interesting, you said they shorten up and allow a small space between the throat and the case when fired?[/B] This brass (which is typically when a blowing shoulder out) shortens up .025-.030" on the first firing. This creates a little bit of exposed neck area from the 2nd firing on. I never had this problem before until coming back and using R25 starting this spring. It slowly built up enough until a round wouldn't chamber. Essentially the same symptoms of having a case that is too long for a chamber and needs trimming. I used H1000 almost exclusively until I had it rechambered and then R25 came alive, so I started using it again. R25 is known for some carbon build up in certain larger chamerings. [B]Are you using fireformed and neck sized case only? Do you turn your necks? [/B] yes it's fireformed in my chamber, but as mentioned above it shortens up on the first firing only. Yes, it is a tight neck and the necks are turned for .0015" overall clearance. [B]How or will, you solve this problem? [/B] The "problem" is that when moving a shoulder forward in any case forming it will shorten up somewhat. Now that I'm aware of the R25 carbon buildup issue, I'll simply make sure I concentrate on this area with a brush and carbon cleaner to keep it out of there. Or go back to H1000. But this R25 is working so good I hate to change. I can't just get a shorter reamer because then you would have to trim the case to get them into the new shorter chamber and the case will still shorten up the same .030" from that point. So I'll end up with the same .030" gap, it will jsut be in a shorter chamber. [B]have you tried any of the new Rutumbo powder yet?[/B] no I haven't. haven't heard back any reports on it yet either. Hear anything yourself? [B]The Nesika action is 1.7 in dia, the barrel is 1.7 in dia (+/-.005), hopefully they will meet up and ill use Ti devcon to bridge the gap if their is any. If the barrel is smaller I will probably go ahead and grind it betweeen centers until the action matches the barrel. If its the other way around the barrel being bigger I will probably turn the first 10 inches forward of the chamber to match the action dia and then blend the diff at the 10 in mark.[/B] ok. that gives me a good picture of what you have in mind. I don't think you will need to go that far if you just block the barrel only and leave the action diameter as is and free flaot it off the back. Numerous guys have floated Rem 700 actions off from the back of blocked 30->40" barrels and don't have a problem. The Remington tenon threads are 1 1/6" dia I beleive and that action is 1.350 dia. So if it doesn't give a problem with a 1.350" dia Remington the bigger Nesika 1.7" dia is even better. That's another advantage of a blocked barrel, is you don't need all of that meat in the action. As a matter of fact some guys prefer the light Remington for this application because of less weigh and just epoxy a magazine follower into the bottom of the action. This should save you a lot of machining time/work. Plus then your action will be original, in case you ever wanted to use it for another project or sell it. Just thinking out loud. [B}I will try and email you with the drawing tonight. [/B] I'll be home tonight but will be leaving before dawn and returning late on Sunday for a match up in VA. If I don't hear from you tonight, I'll respond when I get back. [B] My orginal question about the thread dia of the action being ok hasnt really been addressed as to whether or not that thread dia is sufficent for my application.[/B] you should be jsut fine by blocking the barrel only as mentioned above. I see your from middle Georgia. I would like to extend an invitation to come up to NC 1,000yd club on June 15th (our next match) and I'll introduce you to fellas that have current barrel blocked rifles and you can talk with them a see their setups first hand if that would help you. Let me know. good luck on your project no matter what you decide to do. Steve [/QUOTE]
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Which method? (barrel and action blocks)
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