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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Which die should I use?
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 115526" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>Take this for what you will. I disagree with this double standard. The premise that a belted case is more accurate if it's bumped back so far as to only head space on the belt yet a beltless round works best if it's fire formed to the chamber and fits very closely to a chamber is the way to go. I believe they both shoot best fire formed and neck sized only. I like to feel a little tension on the bolt when I close it up. I keep my lugs clean and lubed so it doesn't hurt the rifle in any way. As I have stated in the past I have been abusing belted magnum cases for 27 years now and have NEVER stuck a case in a gun due to not sizing. I will admit that in my early years I had to use a mallet a time or two to open a bolt from some youthful exuberance at the powder scale. </p><p></p><p>I get easy 10 reloads out of a case before it needs annealing or the necks split before that. I have some 7 Mag cases that have been reloaded over 25 times pushing 150 grain bullets at 3200 with 4831. I did get a couple head separations from bumping shoulders back a couple thou but since I switched to neck only or to backing the body die up at least a full turn this has never happened again. My 257Wby shoots 100's at 3650, no trouble at 10 firings there other than they have lost neck tension and now need annealed. The primer pockets are still good. My 300Wby does 3300 with 180's and they are at 10 times I have a few cases from development that went 3475 with 180's that I still use and the belts on those catch on the bottom of my collet die but they still shoot fine neck sized only in my Mark 5. I have been ignoring the belt for 27 years and will continue as long as my stuff continues to shoot bug holes with no other prep than a pass through a Lee Collet die. Since I switched to collets my brass necks go 3 times as long as they used to before splitting. </p><p></p><p>Over the years I have tried all the bench rest super case prep tools and have slowly given them all up as a waste of time. I have seen my trimmer in years. I take brand new brass and run it through the collet die and go shoot fat 1" to 1½" groups. Then after those cases are fire formed to my guns will turn around and then start shooting .2" to .4" out of factory rifles. If my cases ever do get to tight to chamber then I will only hit the shoulder hard enough to get them to chamber again but will not push them back any more than that. So far that has never happened.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 115526, member: 1290"] Take this for what you will. I disagree with this double standard. The premise that a belted case is more accurate if it's bumped back so far as to only head space on the belt yet a beltless round works best if it's fire formed to the chamber and fits very closely to a chamber is the way to go. I believe they both shoot best fire formed and neck sized only. I like to feel a little tension on the bolt when I close it up. I keep my lugs clean and lubed so it doesn't hurt the rifle in any way. As I have stated in the past I have been abusing belted magnum cases for 27 years now and have NEVER stuck a case in a gun due to not sizing. I will admit that in my early years I had to use a mallet a time or two to open a bolt from some youthful exuberance at the powder scale. I get easy 10 reloads out of a case before it needs annealing or the necks split before that. I have some 7 Mag cases that have been reloaded over 25 times pushing 150 grain bullets at 3200 with 4831. I did get a couple head separations from bumping shoulders back a couple thou but since I switched to neck only or to backing the body die up at least a full turn this has never happened again. My 257Wby shoots 100’s at 3650, no trouble at 10 firings there other than they have lost neck tension and now need annealed. The primer pockets are still good. My 300Wby does 3300 with 180’s and they are at 10 times I have a few cases from development that went 3475 with 180’s that I still use and the belts on those catch on the bottom of my collet die but they still shoot fine neck sized only in my Mark 5. I have been ignoring the belt for 27 years and will continue as long as my stuff continues to shoot bug holes with no other prep than a pass through a Lee Collet die. Since I switched to collets my brass necks go 3 times as long as they used to before splitting. Over the years I have tried all the bench rest super case prep tools and have slowly given them all up as a waste of time. I have seen my trimmer in years. I take brand new brass and run it through the collet die and go shoot fat 1” to 1½” groups. Then after those cases are fire formed to my guns will turn around and then start shooting .2” to .4” out of factory rifles. If my cases ever do get to tight to chamber then I will only hit the shoulder hard enough to get them to chamber again but will not push them back any more than that. So far that has never happened. [/QUOTE]
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Reloading
Which die should I use?
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