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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
which bedding compound?
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<blockquote data-quote="cohunt" data-source="post: 1637411" data-attributes="member: 94491"><p>Yes, the full length bed vs free float is a very touchy/subjective area ---but I like to see actual results from those that have done it, rather than just speculation. Obviously it can and does work if people like Melvin are doing it on their custom rifles. It seems like all the internet talk is that freefloating is the only way to go, but that is obviously not true.</p><p></p><p>From my understanding, pencil and super heavy/long barrels seem to benefit from full length bedding, (keeps harmonics/whip to a minimum with pencil, and helps support droop/receiver flex in heavy ones) most other profiles stem to like free floating--- but those are generalizations and I have no hands on data with full length bedding.</p><p></p><p>I can tell you that this rifle originally had the pressure point on the stock forearm-- but it was ground off by a previous owner before I could try it -- so it came to me free floated--- when free floated, it would occasionally shoot a 3/4 moa group but it was usually in the 1.5moa area. I used playing cards to add pressure at the tip of the fore end and it now shoots 3/4 moa as long as I keep my barrel cool-- when that pencil barrel heats up at all it starts to wander. BUT the stock is the original remington Tupperware stock, not the bell and carlson fiberglass one (hence the reason I'm replacing it) and as temperature rises the stock gets soft too(cant be helping accuracy) </p><p></p><p>I will probably start be free floating the barrel and if accuracy is degraded I will try the forearm pressure again to see if it improves. </p><p></p><p>Once the bedding compound is set and hardened, can you add more at a later date? (Like bedding the barrel) If so do I need to grind the old down a bit for new to "take a bite" correctly?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="cohunt, post: 1637411, member: 94491"] Yes, the full length bed vs free float is a very touchy/subjective area ---but I like to see actual results from those that have done it, rather than just speculation. Obviously it can and does work if people like Melvin are doing it on their custom rifles. It seems like all the internet talk is that freefloating is the only way to go, but that is obviously not true. From my understanding, pencil and super heavy/long barrels seem to benefit from full length bedding, (keeps harmonics/whip to a minimum with pencil, and helps support droop/receiver flex in heavy ones) most other profiles stem to like free floating--- but those are generalizations and I have no hands on data with full length bedding. I can tell you that this rifle originally had the pressure point on the stock forearm-- but it was ground off by a previous owner before I could try it -- so it came to me free floated--- when free floated, it would occasionally shoot a 3/4 moa group but it was usually in the 1.5moa area. I used playing cards to add pressure at the tip of the fore end and it now shoots 3/4 moa as long as I keep my barrel cool-- when that pencil barrel heats up at all it starts to wander. BUT the stock is the original remington Tupperware stock, not the bell and carlson fiberglass one (hence the reason I'm replacing it) and as temperature rises the stock gets soft too(cant be helping accuracy) I will probably start be free floating the barrel and if accuracy is degraded I will try the forearm pressure again to see if it improves. Once the bedding compound is set and hardened, can you add more at a later date? (Like bedding the barrel) If so do I need to grind the old down a bit for new to "take a bite" correctly? [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
which bedding compound?
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