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Where to start with building a 338?
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<blockquote data-quote="Old teacher" data-source="post: 749819" data-attributes="member: 48420"><p>Snowpro440' advice is good, and just a couple high end extras above what I suggested with the Sendero. You will get a good rifle to begin with, add a few high end extras, and end up with a custom rifle that you know will shoot and all the pieces will operate properly together. All I would add is a Jewel trigger. And, in the future, if you really enjoy shooting the rifle and shoot the barrel out of it (which is highly unlikely considering the quality of barrels nowdays, and if you follow the three steps I suggested in my earlier post) , all you have to do is rebarrel it and you have a new gun to start over with.</p><p> </p><p> I posted John Lazzeroni's method of cleaning barrels a few months ago, and using that, I have resurrected several rifles which I thought were history. Just looking down a barrel and seeing nothing but shiny steel does not mean the barrel is clean by any means. Although a barrel light is expensive, it is a good investment. You would be amazed at how much black gunk lies right along the sides of the lands and is not visible just looking down the barrel. Run your brass brush down your barrel, dipping it in Hoppes #10 now and then, about 50 times and you will begin to see what John was talking about. BY the 120th stroke, which is what he recommends, nearly all of that black stuff is gone and you can start using patches. By about the fifth patch, they will come out as white as they go in. If they do not, go back to the brass brush. Small bores are notoriously difficult to get clean. I worked on my 22-243 Middlestead for an hour and a half yesterday, and still could not get the patches to come out white. Even though I "cleaned" the gun every time I used it, it was never getting really clean, or even close. The first twenty (roughly) strokes of the brush would barely go up and down the barrel. As the black gunk began to show up, the brush slid more and more easily. By the 120th stroke, it was as slick as glass, but still pulling out the black stuff. I was appalled when John told me about his cleaning method. I could not imagine running a brush down the barrel of the rifle he had just sent me that many times without doing some damage. But he assured me that the barrel was much to hard for a metal as soft as brass to affect it. But he was dead on. I am slowly going through all of my rifles with this process and getting the same result from all of them. And. the proof is at the range, and it is dramatic.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Old teacher, post: 749819, member: 48420"] Snowpro440' advice is good, and just a couple high end extras above what I suggested with the Sendero. You will get a good rifle to begin with, add a few high end extras, and end up with a custom rifle that you know will shoot and all the pieces will operate properly together. All I would add is a Jewel trigger. And, in the future, if you really enjoy shooting the rifle and shoot the barrel out of it (which is highly unlikely considering the quality of barrels nowdays, and if you follow the three steps I suggested in my earlier post) , all you have to do is rebarrel it and you have a new gun to start over with. I posted John Lazzeroni's method of cleaning barrels a few months ago, and using that, I have resurrected several rifles which I thought were history. Just looking down a barrel and seeing nothing but shiny steel does not mean the barrel is clean by any means. Although a barrel light is expensive, it is a good investment. You would be amazed at how much black gunk lies right along the sides of the lands and is not visible just looking down the barrel. Run your brass brush down your barrel, dipping it in Hoppes #10 now and then, about 50 times and you will begin to see what John was talking about. BY the 120th stroke, which is what he recommends, nearly all of that black stuff is gone and you can start using patches. By about the fifth patch, they will come out as white as they go in. If they do not, go back to the brass brush. Small bores are notoriously difficult to get clean. I worked on my 22-243 Middlestead for an hour and a half yesterday, and still could not get the patches to come out white. Even though I "cleaned" the gun every time I used it, it was never getting really clean, or even close. The first twenty (roughly) strokes of the brush would barely go up and down the barrel. As the black gunk began to show up, the brush slid more and more easily. By the 120th stroke, it was as slick as glass, but still pulling out the black stuff. I was appalled when John told me about his cleaning method. I could not imagine running a brush down the barrel of the rifle he had just sent me that many times without doing some damage. But he assured me that the barrel was much to hard for a metal as soft as brass to affect it. But he was dead on. I am slowly going through all of my rifles with this process and getting the same result from all of them. And. the proof is at the range, and it is dramatic. [/QUOTE]
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Where to start with building a 338?
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