Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Where to find 300 PRC brass
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="yorke-1" data-source="post: 2161568" data-attributes="member: 11960"><p>The modified shell holder will help. How much did you take off it? I go fairly redneck with my case forming and I've actually taken a spare 375 Ruger die over to the bench grinder and just taken roughly .150" off the bottom of the die then chamfered the opening. The measurement doesn't need to be critical as long as it's not making contact with the shell holder.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>The lube can't be compressed, so it makes dents in the shoulder. When you start pushing the shoulder back, those dents will become wrinkles that will fold over and ruin the case. You'll want to use the lube sparingly and pull the die out periodically to clean the lube out of the die. The lanolin/alcohol mixture works well because it leaves a very thin layer of lube on the case which doesn't collect in the die as quickly as Imperial does. Honestly, Imperial Sizing Wax has worked better for me on the case necks when necking down in large steps (from 338-308) and the lanolin works better on the case body when making major changes to the shoulder angle or case taper.</p><p></p><p>I spent a lot of time playing with wildcats in the AR platform like the 6mm Dasher, 6.5 BRX, and 270 AR, and I formed all of those cases by shortening 6.5x47 Lapua and 6.5 Creedmoor brass. I got a TON of practice with pushing case shoulders back and learned a lot of lessons by ruining a lot of brass! LOL</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="yorke-1, post: 2161568, member: 11960"] The modified shell holder will help. How much did you take off it? I go fairly redneck with my case forming and I've actually taken a spare 375 Ruger die over to the bench grinder and just taken roughly .150" off the bottom of the die then chamfered the opening. The measurement doesn't need to be critical as long as it's not making contact with the shell holder. The lube can't be compressed, so it makes dents in the shoulder. When you start pushing the shoulder back, those dents will become wrinkles that will fold over and ruin the case. You'll want to use the lube sparingly and pull the die out periodically to clean the lube out of the die. The lanolin/alcohol mixture works well because it leaves a very thin layer of lube on the case which doesn't collect in the die as quickly as Imperial does. Honestly, Imperial Sizing Wax has worked better for me on the case necks when necking down in large steps (from 338-308) and the lanolin works better on the case body when making major changes to the shoulder angle or case taper. I spent a lot of time playing with wildcats in the AR platform like the 6mm Dasher, 6.5 BRX, and 270 AR, and I formed all of those cases by shortening 6.5x47 Lapua and 6.5 Creedmoor brass. I got a TON of practice with pushing case shoulders back and learned a lot of lessons by ruining a lot of brass! LOL [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Hunting
Long Range Hunting & Shooting
Where to find 300 PRC brass
Top