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Where to find 300 PRC brass
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<blockquote data-quote="calinb" data-source="post: 2161552" data-attributes="member: 31242"><p>Instead of milling a bit off the base of the die, I've milled a bit off the top face of a shell holder. It produces the same result--the shell holder contacts the die later and the shoulder can be pushed harder. Redding even sells sets of under-size shell holders but I used my mill to customized a magnum shell holder for my 243 WSSMs long before I learned of the under-size Redding shell holders.</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I'll order some lanolin off Ebay. Is the lanolin / alcohol lube better than Imperial SIzing Wax?</p><p></p><p>It sounds like I should make about 4 pases with each of the 375 Ruger > 338 RM > 300 PRC dies and the also use my milled shell holder to permit the last pass with each die to be stronger. Maybe I'll buy a 416 die too, as you suggested. It makes sense to get the shoulder pushed back in as many steps as possible. Each time the neck is sized down a step, more shoulder must be created from previous neck brass, right? The milled shell holder provides more "push potential" with all the dies without having to mill each of the dies. It would be nice to have 416, 375 and 300 case length/headspace gauges to use after each step too. Then I could measure the amount of shoulder pushback I achieved, but that would be getting crazy expensive, even if I could find a source for them in today's market. Maybe I can use my new Hornady Headspace Comparator Kit to check my progress at each step. I think it might even be more useful than case gauges, because it's neck size "agnostic".</p><p></p><p>I've never understood why it happens but I guess lube on the shoulder makes dented cases and that's why you recommended not getting lube on the shoulder, right?</p><p></p><p>I'm trying to better understand all of this and your help is most appreciated, yorke-1, and I think I'm going to go for it!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="calinb, post: 2161552, member: 31242"] Instead of milling a bit off the base of the die, I've milled a bit off the top face of a shell holder. It produces the same result--the shell holder contacts the die later and the shoulder can be pushed harder. Redding even sells sets of under-size shell holders but I used my mill to customized a magnum shell holder for my 243 WSSMs long before I learned of the under-size Redding shell holders. I'll order some lanolin off Ebay. Is the lanolin / alcohol lube better than Imperial SIzing Wax? It sounds like I should make about 4 pases with each of the 375 Ruger > 338 RM > 300 PRC dies and the also use my milled shell holder to permit the last pass with each die to be stronger. Maybe I'll buy a 416 die too, as you suggested. It makes sense to get the shoulder pushed back in as many steps as possible. Each time the neck is sized down a step, more shoulder must be created from previous neck brass, right? The milled shell holder provides more "push potential" with all the dies without having to mill each of the dies. It would be nice to have 416, 375 and 300 case length/headspace gauges to use after each step too. Then I could measure the amount of shoulder pushback I achieved, but that would be getting crazy expensive, even if I could find a source for them in today's market. Maybe I can use my new Hornady Headspace Comparator Kit to check my progress at each step. I think it might even be more useful than case gauges, because it's neck size "agnostic". I've never understood why it happens but I guess lube on the shoulder makes dented cases and that's why you recommended not getting lube on the shoulder, right? I'm trying to better understand all of this and your help is most appreciated, yorke-1, and I think I'm going to go for it! [/QUOTE]
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