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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
When to turn
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<blockquote data-quote="boomtube" data-source="post: 261854" data-attributes="member: 9215"><p>"My ? is how much is turning really helping, does it show up on paper? Then when i was turning i was using custom bullets such as Euber, Hollister, and watson's ( dont even know if there around anymore ) "</p><p> </p><p>Mike, I'm no expert but I have tried everything on the table to achieve better accuracy. Don't think the bullets themselves have much effect on the results of neck turning, other than those that shoot well will show any improvement more clearly. My two real "expert" BR shooting friends ("Mike" Walker and Dave Tooley) say we factory rifle shooters are spinning our wheels when turning. I believe them but I do it anyway. A little. </p><p> </p><p>I cut just enough off the necks to clean up the worst of the thickness variations, not enough to totally eliminate it because I'm certain my rifles can't see the difference. What I do know is it can't hurt, not unless it's taken to ridiculous levels! ( And, yeah, I've tied THAT too! Just made a mess out of a mess! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /> )</p><p> </p><p>Did some experimenting by forming tightly fitted case necks for my three best shooters, a .22-250 Sako, .243 Wea. Vanguard and a 6mm International Rem. 40XB (a factory "wildcat" that I have to form the cases for anyway). Formed the smaller cases from carefully weighed .30-06 cases. The necks were far too thick, which was my goal. Then, working to chamber cast measurements, I turned (and annealed) the necks to only a .003" clearance. It was fun as an experiment but a lot of work. My typical groups did improve a little but not enough to keep it up, my previous 1/2" and 3/8" averages were - maybe - 1/16" better. That's a LOT of improvement for "BR" comptition but it really didn't make any difference to me since I'm only shooting crows and groundhogs! And I suspect that the end goal IS the important difference when people speak of does turning make any "difference" or not. ??</p><p> </p><p>I find no way to predict what neck turning factory chambered brass will do tho, nor how much to thin the necks. I know that turning won't make a 2" rifle into a half incher, nor even a one incher. On most of my rifles, it has shown no detectable change at all. I THINK the difference may be just how much slop is in the chamber fit to start with. In those few rifles that it does help, they do have slightly tighter chamber necks than the others. So....maybe that's it?</p><p> </p><p>My Forster HOT-100 neck turner is well made and inexpensive, as turners go, and I think it does as good a job as any other. (Dropping the large coins for a Pumpkin, etc, for factory rifles IS a waste! IMHO.) I suggest anyone who wishes to leave no stone unturned (PUN), get a HOT-100 and try it. Even if it has no effect, you will have the assurance that you haven't left anything out in your endeavors, but don't expect any massive improvement.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="boomtube, post: 261854, member: 9215"] "My ? is how much is turning really helping, does it show up on paper? Then when i was turning i was using custom bullets such as Euber, Hollister, and watson's ( dont even know if there around anymore ) " Mike, I'm no expert but I have tried everything on the table to achieve better accuracy. Don't think the bullets themselves have much effect on the results of neck turning, other than those that shoot well will show any improvement more clearly. My two real "expert" BR shooting friends ("Mike" Walker and Dave Tooley) say we factory rifle shooters are spinning our wheels when turning. I believe them but I do it anyway. A little. I cut just enough off the necks to clean up the worst of the thickness variations, not enough to totally eliminate it because I'm certain my rifles can't see the difference. What I do know is it can't hurt, not unless it's taken to ridiculous levels! ( And, yeah, I've tied THAT too! Just made a mess out of a mess! :) ) Did some experimenting by forming tightly fitted case necks for my three best shooters, a .22-250 Sako, .243 Wea. Vanguard and a 6mm International Rem. 40XB (a factory "wildcat" that I have to form the cases for anyway). Formed the smaller cases from carefully weighed .30-06 cases. The necks were far too thick, which was my goal. Then, working to chamber cast measurements, I turned (and annealed) the necks to only a .003" clearance. It was fun as an experiment but a lot of work. My typical groups did improve a little but not enough to keep it up, my previous 1/2" and 3/8" averages were - maybe - 1/16" better. That's a LOT of improvement for "BR" comptition but it really didn't make any difference to me since I'm only shooting crows and groundhogs! And I suspect that the end goal IS the important difference when people speak of does turning make any "difference" or not. ?? I find no way to predict what neck turning factory chambered brass will do tho, nor how much to thin the necks. I know that turning won't make a 2" rifle into a half incher, nor even a one incher. On most of my rifles, it has shown no detectable change at all. I THINK the difference may be just how much slop is in the chamber fit to start with. In those few rifles that it does help, they do have slightly tighter chamber necks than the others. So....maybe that's it? My Forster HOT-100 neck turner is well made and inexpensive, as turners go, and I think it does as good a job as any other. (Dropping the large coins for a Pumpkin, etc, for factory rifles IS a waste! IMHO.) I suggest anyone who wishes to leave no stone unturned (PUN), get a HOT-100 and try it. Even if it has no effect, you will have the assurance that you haven't left anything out in your endeavors, but don't expect any massive improvement. [/QUOTE]
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