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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
When to turn
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<blockquote data-quote="heikki02003" data-source="post: 261403" data-attributes="member: 15200"><p><span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">Thank you very much for the replies. Sorry for not providing more info. boomtube, you really put my mind to rest, I will turn before, because then the fireforming shot will centre the case neck in the chamber. Also, I thought that now they have nice clean inside necks and will not interfere with going onto the turning mandrel. </span></span></p><p><span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">I have been reloading for a long time; I have just never turned any necks. I have no experience turning necks. For this build I am going with a relative tight neck camber so that I can clean up my necks to provide more consistent neck tension when seating my bullets. I load many rounds by hand with an arbour press and </span></span><span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">Wilson</span></span><span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'"> dies and I'm finding too much variance in seating pressure. By the way, K&M make an arbour press with a pressure indicator. I am convinced that these variations are due to inner none concentric case necks because I do have case neck wall differences per case and I'm using Wilson bushing dies (without an expander button). </span></span></p><p><span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">If you have none uniform case necks, and only size using a bushing die, you are inevitably inducing none circular case necks. The answer to this is to use an expander button. Out of personal preference I don't like expander buttons. So my answer to the problem is to build a tight neck (.003" clearance total) chambered rifle and turn the brass. </span></span></p><p><span style="color: black"><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">The rifle is built on a Surgeon SA repeater with Badger bottom metal, a 24" Kreiger 1:9.5" twist #5 contour SS barrel. The reamer is made by Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool and Gage, it's set up for .284Win WW brass with a .317 neck and .090 freebore. My WW brass with loaded rounds measure .314 to .316, I'm going to turn them all to .314, and plan on using a .312/.313 bushing.</span></span></p><p><span style="font-family: 'Verdana'">Remember that turning necks removes material, making them thinner and more prone to splitting. As mentioned here, excessive neck clearance to chamber will make a "sloppy fit", and also weaken your case through excessive cold working of the brass through sizing. The .284 case is ideally suited to remove a thou or two as it's some pretty hefty stuff. </span></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="heikki02003, post: 261403, member: 15200"] [COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Thank you very much for the replies. Sorry for not providing more info. boomtube, you really put my mind to rest, I will turn before, because then the fireforming shot will centre the case neck in the chamber. Also, I thought that now they have nice clean inside necks and will not interfere with going onto the turning mandrel. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]I have been reloading for a long time; I have just never turned any necks. I have no experience turning necks. For this build I am going with a relative tight neck camber so that I can clean up my necks to provide more consistent neck tension when seating my bullets. I load many rounds by hand with an arbour press and [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]Wilson[/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana] dies and I'm finding too much variance in seating pressure. By the way, K&M make an arbour press with a pressure indicator. I am convinced that these variations are due to inner none concentric case necks because I do have case neck wall differences per case and I'm using Wilson bushing dies (without an expander button). [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]If you have none uniform case necks, and only size using a bushing die, you are inevitably inducing none circular case necks. The answer to this is to use an expander button. Out of personal preference I don’t like expander buttons. So my answer to the problem is to build a tight neck (.003" clearance total) chambered rifle and turn the brass. [/FONT][/COLOR] [COLOR=black][FONT=Verdana]The rifle is built on a Surgeon SA repeater with Badger bottom metal, a 24" Kreiger 1:9.5" twist #5 contour SS barrel. The reamer is made by Dave Kiff at Pacific Tool and Gage, it's set up for .284Win WW brass with a .317 neck and .090 freebore. My WW brass with loaded rounds measure .314 to .316, I'm going to turn them all to .314, and plan on using a .312/.313 bushing.[/FONT][/COLOR] [FONT=Verdana]Remember that turning necks removes material, making them thinner and more prone to splitting. As mentioned here, excessive neck clearance to chamber will make a “sloppy fit”, and also weaken your case through excessive cold working of the brass through sizing. The .284 case is ideally suited to remove a thou or two as it's some pretty hefty stuff. [/FONT] [/QUOTE]
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When to turn
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