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<blockquote data-quote="liltank" data-source="post: 384464" data-attributes="member: 13275"><p>You should definitely do barrel break in for at least the first 20 rounds or so. This is when the copper is going to build up the most in the throat on the new lands. You should make sure to clean between each shot thoroughly for the first 5 removing all fouling. Then you should do a 5 shot string, then a 10 shot string. That should get the barrel ready pretty quickly. The other variable is cleaning between shots. This will cause your groups to open up until it is broken in. Then you will get one cold bore flier or possibly group together without issue. During break in your velocities are going to be all over the place. At that range consistency in load is key. Higher velocities will produce high shots, and low speeds will produce low shots. If you shoot across a chrony you will see the variance. </p><p></p><p>Even though it is a new scope, it can still fail. Guys on this sight have been complaining about Leupold's quality going down hill. Sometimes a lemon makes it through the line. I would do the box test at 100yrds and see if there is any irregularity as suggested. I know that with my Savages a barrel break in was necessary, but the accuracy only continued to get better until I shot the barrel out 3000rnds. later (300WSM). Some of that was my fault getting the barrel to hot and using high pressure loads. </p><p></p><p>The other factor is breath control. You need to repeat your breath control with each shot. If your lungs are full you will likely shoot low do to different eye alignment where as when your lungs are empty, then your shots should go high because of different eye alignment. Repetition is the key to long range success. </p><p></p><p>The HSM just might not be the load it likes also. You may find that it like the Lapua's. It is a matter of trial and error.</p><p></p><p>Tank</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="liltank, post: 384464, member: 13275"] You should definitely do barrel break in for at least the first 20 rounds or so. This is when the copper is going to build up the most in the throat on the new lands. You should make sure to clean between each shot thoroughly for the first 5 removing all fouling. Then you should do a 5 shot string, then a 10 shot string. That should get the barrel ready pretty quickly. The other variable is cleaning between shots. This will cause your groups to open up until it is broken in. Then you will get one cold bore flier or possibly group together without issue. During break in your velocities are going to be all over the place. At that range consistency in load is key. Higher velocities will produce high shots, and low speeds will produce low shots. If you shoot across a chrony you will see the variance. Even though it is a new scope, it can still fail. Guys on this sight have been complaining about Leupold's quality going down hill. Sometimes a lemon makes it through the line. I would do the box test at 100yrds and see if there is any irregularity as suggested. I know that with my Savages a barrel break in was necessary, but the accuracy only continued to get better until I shot the barrel out 3000rnds. later (300WSM). Some of that was my fault getting the barrel to hot and using high pressure loads. The other factor is breath control. You need to repeat your breath control with each shot. If your lungs are full you will likely shoot low do to different eye alignment where as when your lungs are empty, then your shots should go high because of different eye alignment. Repetition is the key to long range success. The HSM just might not be the load it likes also. You may find that it like the Lapua's. It is a matter of trial and error. Tank [/QUOTE]
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