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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
What lathe to buy
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 455178" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I recommend a 6" square piece of 1018 steel plate for leveling pads. You may have to drill a hole thru it for the lag bolts (these are more important than the leveling screws!). I know it's a little more work, but before you set the machine take a small body grinder with a sanding pad on it and actually sand the bumps in the concrete away. The pads need to be at least stoned so there are no bumps on them (especially the side facing the floor). Leveling the machine just makes the coolant and oil stay in the right places, so take little stock in the quality of a leveling job on a machine! Use the biggest fine threaded screws you can for lag bolts and by all means use a jam nut. I have had floors so bad that I had to use different thicknesses of pads on one end than the other, so don't be alarmed if that happens. The trick here is to keep the feet of the lathe as close to the pad as you can (I do not like a gap bigger than .10"). If the floor is very rough (I've seen this a few times), spray the bottom of the pads with Johnsons Pledge, and coat them with a good heavy coating of Devcon epoxy (this will help fill the gaps between the plate and the floor). Lastly! (this is very very important) Never ever place the bed of the lathe accross a crack in the floor. Be it a seperation joint or just a run of the mill crack. The machine will never stay aligned, and actually will wear much quicker.</p><p> </p><p>You get ready to do a finish alignment; let me know and I'll help you thru it.</p><p>Gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 455178, member: 25383"] I recommend a 6" square piece of 1018 steel plate for leveling pads. You may have to drill a hole thru it for the lag bolts (these are more important than the leveling screws!). I know it's a little more work, but before you set the machine take a small body grinder with a sanding pad on it and actually sand the bumps in the concrete away. The pads need to be at least stoned so there are no bumps on them (especially the side facing the floor). Leveling the machine just makes the coolant and oil stay in the right places, so take little stock in the quality of a leveling job on a machine! Use the biggest fine threaded screws you can for lag bolts and by all means use a jam nut. I have had floors so bad that I had to use different thicknesses of pads on one end than the other, so don't be alarmed if that happens. The trick here is to keep the feet of the lathe as close to the pad as you can (I do not like a gap bigger than .10"). If the floor is very rough (I've seen this a few times), spray the bottom of the pads with Johnsons Pledge, and coat them with a good heavy coating of Devcon epoxy (this will help fill the gaps between the plate and the floor). Lastly! (this is very very important) Never ever place the bed of the lathe accross a crack in the floor. Be it a seperation joint or just a run of the mill crack. The machine will never stay aligned, and actually will wear much quicker. You get ready to do a finish alignment; let me know and I'll help you thru it. Gary [/QUOTE]
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What lathe to buy
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