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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
What is the best rifleing
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<blockquote data-quote="nksmfamjp" data-source="post: 1897096" data-attributes="member: 1951"><p>Seems like a good post to sticky....this is hard info to find. I get that it is one man's experience, but JE is well respected here which means a lot.</p><p></p><p>I think this is where people struggle....when asking about contour, lands&grooves, SS vs Chromo, crown type, chambering, throating, cut vs button vs hammer, length, etc....guys always want to tie each item to a "does it shoot mo' better" question. The answer to mo' better is what produces the straightest, most accurately made bore shape that launches your cartridge/load perfectly at an accuracy node is mo' better....a lot of barrel options are related to "accuracy node" finding....I only know what I do. You have to figure out how you are going to guess a node design!</p><p></p><p>To the OP.....yes, both are mo' better. I think this was covered up a few posts, but maybe not as concisely as I would like.</p><p></p><p>Cut rifling does not put stress in the steel. You start with normalized steel, you cut, it stays normalized. My understanding is best steels for this are a bit harder easy machining steels. So, the bore is said to be a bit harder and longer accuracy life.</p><p></p><p>Button rifling...you start with normalized steel. You pull a button through it. That work puts stress in the steel. You stress relieve it through your method that doesn't warp the bore. It should be fully normalized again, but this cannot be proven or checked, except by shooting it. Any post rifling fluting, countouring, chambering can release stress causing a dimensional shift.....or you really could have a perfectly stress relieved barrel and no shift occurs. IMO, Shilen, Lilja, Hart, to name a few have their process down so this shift does not occur. The other factor is these steels are easy forming steels so the button works. Well, I read that this just happens to be a hair softer and may impact accuracy life.</p><p></p><p>Hammer Forged stresses the steel so much that it work hardens the steel very aggressively. This is great for machine gun barrels and some people have their process down such that reasonably good accuracy is possible, but in general, regardless of the stamp on it, these are not really match grade.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="nksmfamjp, post: 1897096, member: 1951"] Seems like a good post to sticky....this is hard info to find. I get that it is one man’s experience, but JE is well respected here which means a lot. I think this is where people struggle....when asking about contour, lands&grooves, SS vs Chromo, crown type, chambering, throating, cut vs button vs hammer, length, etc....guys always want to tie each item to a “does it shoot mo’ better” question. The answer to mo’ better is what produces the straightest, most accurately made bore shape that launches your cartridge/load perfectly at an accuracy node is mo’ better....a lot of barrel options are related to “accuracy node” finding....I only know what I do. You have to figure out how you are going to guess a node design! To the OP.....yes, both are mo’ better. I think this was covered up a few posts, but maybe not as concisely as I would like. Cut rifling does not put stress in the steel. You start with normalized steel, you cut, it stays normalized. My understanding is best steels for this are a bit harder easy machining steels. So, the bore is said to be a bit harder and longer accuracy life. Button rifling...you start with normalized steel. You pull a button through it. That work puts stress in the steel. You stress relieve it through your method that doesn’t warp the bore. It should be fully normalized again, but this cannot be proven or checked, except by shooting it. Any post rifling fluting, countouring, chambering can release stress causing a dimensional shift.....or you really could have a perfectly stress relieved barrel and no shift occurs. IMO, Shilen, Lilja, Hart, to name a few have their process down so this shift does not occur. The other factor is these steels are easy forming steels so the button works. Well, I read that this just happens to be a hair softer and may impact accuracy life. Hammer Forged stresses the steel so much that it work hardens the steel very aggressively. This is great for machine gun barrels and some people have their process down such that reasonably good accuracy is possible, but in general, regardless of the stamp on it, these are not really match grade. [/QUOTE]
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What is the best rifleing
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