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The Basics, Starting Out
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<blockquote data-quote="Tac-O" data-source="post: 1820167" data-attributes="member: 109994"><p>I got some lower rings that I installed and a buttstock ammo pouch that has a raised cheek rest. We'll see how it a better cheek well works out! One thing I'm worried about though, is potentially having the webbing straps on the bottom of my ammo pouch catch on my rear rest during recoil (I let my left hand sit on the bench in front of the rear rest and let the gun free recoil . The two items I have are in the pictures below, but I improved the rear bag awhile ago using electrical tape on the ears to firm up the hold and stability on the stock and I also put a 1" x 6" board on the bottom of it to make the whole bag more stable.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]172420[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]172421[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>When removing my action from the stock, I also noticed that my barrel had some marks on it from it hitting the pressure point rib closer to the receiver, which I'm 98% sure it was happening during recoil and possibly touching after the barrel warmed up. In the tikka synthetic stocks, there are two pressure point ribs in the foreend. Not long after I got the gun, I trimmed these down to free float it as well as a bit of the barrel channel on one side that was contacting the barrel. I read quite a few accounts of people improving the accuracy of their tikka by removing those ribs and it seemed to shrink my group sizes after I did so. But I apparently didn't trim the one down farm enough. So, I went ahead and trimmed the one that was making contact a bit further to hopefully eliminate any contact during recoil and when the barrel warms.</p><p></p><p>Unfortunately, I changed too many things at once for methodical problem solving. Pretty dumb of me!! <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite10" alt=":oops:" title="Oops! :oops:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":oops:" /> But, I'm ok with starting at square one. So the changes I made for the next round of shooting are: lower scope and raise stock comb height, removed more stock material that was making contact upon recoil and/or barrel warming. I'm excited to see what happens!</p><p></p><p>If these changes don't eliminate the odd groups, I'll probably stabilize the foreend with the stock stabilizer someone mentioned, as well as bed the action. Does anyone know of a lightweight resin that can be used as the foreend stock stabilizer that is readily available at stores rather than ordering the stuff online through Nathan Foster's ballistic studies web site? I figured I could use a regular 2 part epoxy like JB weld or similar, but I want to find one that is lightweight so I can keep the weight of my rifle down. I'm not looking to turn it into a heavy gun.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tac-O, post: 1820167, member: 109994"] I got some lower rings that I installed and a buttstock ammo pouch that has a raised cheek rest. We'll see how it a better cheek well works out! One thing I'm worried about though, is potentially having the webbing straps on the bottom of my ammo pouch catch on my rear rest during recoil (I let my left hand sit on the bench in front of the rear rest and let the gun free recoil . The two items I have are in the pictures below, but I improved the rear bag awhile ago using electrical tape on the ears to firm up the hold and stability on the stock and I also put a 1" x 6" board on the bottom of it to make the whole bag more stable. [ATTACH type="full" width="225px" alt="1580308561187.png"]172420[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="1580308613079.png"]172421[/ATTACH] When removing my action from the stock, I also noticed that my barrel had some marks on it from it hitting the pressure point rib closer to the receiver, which I'm 98% sure it was happening during recoil and possibly touching after the barrel warmed up. In the tikka synthetic stocks, there are two pressure point ribs in the foreend. Not long after I got the gun, I trimmed these down to free float it as well as a bit of the barrel channel on one side that was contacting the barrel. I read quite a few accounts of people improving the accuracy of their tikka by removing those ribs and it seemed to shrink my group sizes after I did so. But I apparently didn't trim the one down farm enough. So, I went ahead and trimmed the one that was making contact a bit further to hopefully eliminate any contact during recoil and when the barrel warms. Unfortunately, I changed too many things at once for methodical problem solving. Pretty dumb of me!! :oops: But, I'm ok with starting at square one. So the changes I made for the next round of shooting are: lower scope and raise stock comb height, removed more stock material that was making contact upon recoil and/or barrel warming. I'm excited to see what happens! If these changes don't eliminate the odd groups, I'll probably stabilize the foreend with the stock stabilizer someone mentioned, as well as bed the action. Does anyone know of a lightweight resin that can be used as the foreend stock stabilizer that is readily available at stores rather than ordering the stuff online through Nathan Foster's ballistic studies web site? I figured I could use a regular 2 part epoxy like JB weld or similar, but I want to find one that is lightweight so I can keep the weight of my rifle down. I'm not looking to turn it into a heavy gun. [/QUOTE]
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