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The Basics, Starting Out
What does this grouping mean?
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<blockquote data-quote="Tensilon" data-source="post: 1817397" data-attributes="member: 29503"><p>Any flex in your forearm can lead to grouping issues. I see aushunter1 feels the same way I do about T3 stocks and like I said earlier my best thought in regard to the double groupings is that it probably has to do with the weak forearm that is flexing when you settle in and shoot. Sounds like you know your way around building an accurate cartridge for the most part. If you bed a Tikka stock, the recoil lug must be bedded in a very particular way. I also have 2 Tikkas, one in 6.5 creed and one in a 300 win mag but both are the hunter models with wooden stocks. The 300 is bedded to about an inch or a little more down the barrel. It is also pillared and the lug is permanently bedded into the stock. The 300 lays rounds in consistently around 0.25 to 0.36 of an inch. The creedmoor I am working on bedding and pillaring right now. When bedding the recoil lug of a T3 the top and the rear face of the lug need to be clear of the action while the front face of the bedded lug needs to be in full contact with the action in order to return to battery properly. In other words... the top and rear of the lug needs to be taped when bedding and the front of the lug needs to fit firmly against the action i.e no tape. When I say the action I mean the tiny slot that the top of the recoil lug fits into. Also, the T3s do not have a free floated barrels from the factory. There are pressure point ribs on the sides of the stocks. These help the factory rifle immensely and they are not located at the forearm tip. Tikka has not designed the stock to be free floated. If you have removed the pressure points from the plastic stock then you have effectively removed what Tikka put in there to make the rifle more consistent. Really, one should never free float a plastic stocked rifle without bedding the rifle. One also needs to fill the forearm of the stock with a light weight bedding compound like I mentioned earlier i.e. Match Grade plastic stock stabilizer to stop it from flexing. If you have never bedded a rifle stock it may just be easier to buy a decent aftermarket stock with a full length aluminum bedding block in it. From what I understand not many smiths are really good at bedding the Tikka lug in the manner that it needs to be bedded... I may be wrong about this as the correct method of doing this has probably gotten around somewhat. You are more than likely capable of doing it yourself but one needs to understand the way a floating recoil lug works in order to do it correctly. Also, if you have ever torqued the actions screws on a plastic Tikka stock to over 45 inch pounds you have already splayed out the plastic stock. The only solution to saving the stock is to properly bed it and stabilize it. There are issues with flexy plastic stocks that must be addressed. So it's easy to go down a rabbit hole by chasing all sorts of issues with a rifle that groups poorly however, first and foremost you need a stable platform from which to launch your bullets. I don't think too many folks, especially on this forum, will disagree with that statement. </p><p>Two books would help you out immensely: The practical guide to bolt action rifle accurizing and maintenance and the practical guide to long range hunting rifles by Nathan Foster. In these you will find a wealth of information in regard to what works and what doesn't for most all brands of rifles but also specifically in regard to the problems inherent to plastic stocked T3s. I know I sound like an ad for this Kiwi's website.... but the man knows his business and what he advises has worked for me every time. Ballisticstudies.com. Straight up guy and speaks and writes in easily understandable terms. Don't give up... Tikkas can be very accurate rifles and the actions are smooth as glass.</p><p>Best of luck with your rifle Ryan. Let us know what finally works for you.</p><p>Tens <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite6" alt=":cool:" title="Cool :cool:" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":cool:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tensilon, post: 1817397, member: 29503"] Any flex in your forearm can lead to grouping issues. I see aushunter1 feels the same way I do about T3 stocks and like I said earlier my best thought in regard to the double groupings is that it probably has to do with the weak forearm that is flexing when you settle in and shoot. Sounds like you know your way around building an accurate cartridge for the most part. If you bed a Tikka stock, the recoil lug must be bedded in a very particular way. I also have 2 Tikkas, one in 6.5 creed and one in a 300 win mag but both are the hunter models with wooden stocks. The 300 is bedded to about an inch or a little more down the barrel. It is also pillared and the lug is permanently bedded into the stock. The 300 lays rounds in consistently around 0.25 to 0.36 of an inch. The creedmoor I am working on bedding and pillaring right now. When bedding the recoil lug of a T3 the top and the rear face of the lug need to be clear of the action while the front face of the bedded lug needs to be in full contact with the action in order to return to battery properly. In other words... the top and rear of the lug needs to be taped when bedding and the front of the lug needs to fit firmly against the action i.e no tape. When I say the action I mean the tiny slot that the top of the recoil lug fits into. Also, the T3s do not have a free floated barrels from the factory. There are pressure point ribs on the sides of the stocks. These help the factory rifle immensely and they are not located at the forearm tip. Tikka has not designed the stock to be free floated. If you have removed the pressure points from the plastic stock then you have effectively removed what Tikka put in there to make the rifle more consistent. Really, one should never free float a plastic stocked rifle without bedding the rifle. One also needs to fill the forearm of the stock with a light weight bedding compound like I mentioned earlier i.e. Match Grade plastic stock stabilizer to stop it from flexing. If you have never bedded a rifle stock it may just be easier to buy a decent aftermarket stock with a full length aluminum bedding block in it. From what I understand not many smiths are really good at bedding the Tikka lug in the manner that it needs to be bedded... I may be wrong about this as the correct method of doing this has probably gotten around somewhat. You are more than likely capable of doing it yourself but one needs to understand the way a floating recoil lug works in order to do it correctly. Also, if you have ever torqued the actions screws on a plastic Tikka stock to over 45 inch pounds you have already splayed out the plastic stock. The only solution to saving the stock is to properly bed it and stabilize it. There are issues with flexy plastic stocks that must be addressed. So it's easy to go down a rabbit hole by chasing all sorts of issues with a rifle that groups poorly however, first and foremost you need a stable platform from which to launch your bullets. I don't think too many folks, especially on this forum, will disagree with that statement. Two books would help you out immensely: The practical guide to bolt action rifle accurizing and maintenance and the practical guide to long range hunting rifles by Nathan Foster. In these you will find a wealth of information in regard to what works and what doesn't for most all brands of rifles but also specifically in regard to the problems inherent to plastic stocked T3s. I know I sound like an ad for this Kiwi's website.... but the man knows his business and what he advises has worked for me every time. Ballisticstudies.com. Straight up guy and speaks and writes in easily understandable terms. Don't give up... Tikkas can be very accurate rifles and the actions are smooth as glass. Best of luck with your rifle Ryan. Let us know what finally works for you. Tens :cool: [/QUOTE]
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