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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
What are your thoughts on this technique?
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<blockquote data-quote="J E Custom" data-source="post: 1866115" data-attributes="member: 2736"><p>I may have been a little harsh. But there are ideas, and then there are "BAD" ideas. I like innovation and new ideas. but sometimes we tend to over think a problem and end up treating the symptoms instead of the illness/problem. the problem he describes starts before cutting any chamber and can be eliminated then.</p><p></p><p>There have been two (Or More) piece barrels and problems were dealt with to a degree and some success was achieved, but the fixes to having a connection in barrel bore were to extensive and not plausible for most and the results were no better.</p><p></p><p>I can see the attractiveness of having a replaceable barrel or chamber but every time you would have to change one or the other you would be essentially starting over.</p><p></p><p>The best method I have ever found is to start with a premium barrel that checks out straight, do a precision set up of the barrel, use quality reamers that fit the bore, And save that reamer if possible for the time that you may want to set the shoulder back and cut a new chamber, throat and lead with the same reamer. this returns the barrel to it's original quality and the rest of the barrel is already broke in/seasoned. this will almost double the life of a good barrel because the first .050 of the barrel wears the most and setting the shoulder back cuts a new chamber, throat and lead.</p><p></p><p>Note: after all work is centered to the bore, If the OD of the barrel has any reasonable runout (.0005 to .003) I like to re contour to .0000 runout so that the barrel wall is consistent end to end</p><p>with the bore. Barrels with more than .007 thousandths runout on the OD after the bore is trued in the lathe are rejected before I start any machining. I am not sure how much runout is bad, but I know zero is good.</p><p></p><p>I don't believe in solving one problem by creating another.</p><p></p><p>J E CUSTOM</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="J E Custom, post: 1866115, member: 2736"] I may have been a little harsh. But there are ideas, and then there are "BAD" ideas. I like innovation and new ideas. but sometimes we tend to over think a problem and end up treating the symptoms instead of the illness/problem. the problem he describes starts before cutting any chamber and can be eliminated then. There have been two (Or More) piece barrels and problems were dealt with to a degree and some success was achieved, but the fixes to having a connection in barrel bore were to extensive and not plausible for most and the results were no better. I can see the attractiveness of having a replaceable barrel or chamber but every time you would have to change one or the other you would be essentially starting over. The best method I have ever found is to start with a premium barrel that checks out straight, do a precision set up of the barrel, use quality reamers that fit the bore, And save that reamer if possible for the time that you may want to set the shoulder back and cut a new chamber, throat and lead with the same reamer. this returns the barrel to it's original quality and the rest of the barrel is already broke in/seasoned. this will almost double the life of a good barrel because the first .050 of the barrel wears the most and setting the shoulder back cuts a new chamber, throat and lead. Note: after all work is centered to the bore, If the OD of the barrel has any reasonable runout (.0005 to .003) I like to re contour to .0000 runout so that the barrel wall is consistent end to end with the bore. Barrels with more than .007 thousandths runout on the OD after the bore is trued in the lathe are rejected before I start any machining. I am not sure how much runout is bad, but I know zero is good. I don't believe in solving one problem by creating another. J E CUSTOM [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
What are your thoughts on this technique?
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