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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
What am I doing wrong??
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<blockquote data-quote="Lightvarmint" data-source="post: 217587"><p>Esshup,</p><p></p><p>(1) Sometimes neck dies do not hold the body enough to prevent runout. Try full length dies backed off enough to just bump the shoulder. I do this on me 338/378 and the 30/378 Weatherby dies and it works for me.</p><p></p><p>(2) Try a different sizing button. Sometimes they warp and you will not get concentric sizing.</p><p></p><p>(3) Try a different shell holder. We have found that they are not always machined the same even with the same stock number.</p><p></p><p>(4) Check the press ram to ensure you don't have any wobble in it.</p><p></p><p>(5) Try your procedure on a different caliber to see if you get similar results.</p><p></p><p>(6) One trick is to back off the lock ring and insert a rubber o-ring between the press</p><p>and the lock ring. This will allow the die to align with the ram if it is not perfectly aligned already.</p><p></p><p>(7) Get a good magnifying glass and check the surface finish of the brass. You might be reading surface imperfections as well as runout.</p><p></p><p>(8) Almost forgot, increase the dwell time the case is in the die. Say for a ten count or so to allow for the brass to "go to sleep" and minimize spring back.</p><p></p><p>(9) Finally, turn a case neck and do all the measurements again after it is fired in the gun.</p><p></p><p>FWIW, I spent 30 years in the submarine force and on more than one occassion, really missed the center of a watertight door or a hatch when passing through during a casualty or another emergency. They tend to ring your bell and they do not move. </p><p></p><p>Anyway, I always look at the relationship of the bullet to the center of the bore and the orientation of same as if It were a sub hatch or watertight door. You are much better off being perfectly aligned than not.</p><p></p><p>Using my Sinclair tool, I rotate the loaded case and mark the high side. I orient the high side to the 12 o'clock position in the chamber. Works for us very well.</p><p></p><p>Good luck in getting the bugs worked out.</p><p></p><p>James</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lightvarmint, post: 217587"] Esshup, (1) Sometimes neck dies do not hold the body enough to prevent runout. Try full length dies backed off enough to just bump the shoulder. I do this on me 338/378 and the 30/378 Weatherby dies and it works for me. (2) Try a different sizing button. Sometimes they warp and you will not get concentric sizing. (3) Try a different shell holder. We have found that they are not always machined the same even with the same stock number. (4) Check the press ram to ensure you don't have any wobble in it. (5) Try your procedure on a different caliber to see if you get similar results. (6) One trick is to back off the lock ring and insert a rubber o-ring between the press and the lock ring. This will allow the die to align with the ram if it is not perfectly aligned already. (7) Get a good magnifying glass and check the surface finish of the brass. You might be reading surface imperfections as well as runout. (8) Almost forgot, increase the dwell time the case is in the die. Say for a ten count or so to allow for the brass to "go to sleep" and minimize spring back. (9) Finally, turn a case neck and do all the measurements again after it is fired in the gun. FWIW, I spent 30 years in the submarine force and on more than one occassion, really missed the center of a watertight door or a hatch when passing through during a casualty or another emergency. They tend to ring your bell and they do not move. Anyway, I always look at the relationship of the bullet to the center of the bore and the orientation of same as if It were a sub hatch or watertight door. You are much better off being perfectly aligned than not. Using my Sinclair tool, I rotate the loaded case and mark the high side. I orient the high side to the 12 o'clock position in the chamber. Works for us very well. Good luck in getting the bugs worked out. James [/QUOTE]
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