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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Weatherby 338-378 grouping issues
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<blockquote data-quote="Autorotate" data-source="post: 426673" data-attributes="member: 8073"><p>If I saw this type of target, I'd look really hard (Dr. Rifle slow and thorough like) at the following-</p><p></p><p>Optic-Do you have another rifle you can put the optic on, and just shoot a group with to make sure you didn't shake a the guts loose on the VX3.</p><p></p><p>Optic mounting-Obvious visual inspection, then remove optic, remove rings, remove bases. Reassemble using a product like the Kokopelli alignment bars to ensure a stress free mount for your optic. If you don't have alignment bars, attempt to slowly and gently rotate your scope in the rings with the ring caps removed, exercising care not to mar your tube. If your scope acts bound up, that should serve as an indication that your optic mounting is putting stress in your optic. Reassemble and torque to mfg specs.</p><p></p><p>Action screws-check to ensure you have those torqued to 55-65 in lbs. Most smiths will suggest the front screw needs to be torqued to final torque first, then the rear action screw.</p><p></p><p>Barrel free float-you stated it is free floated, but most Wbys will have pressure point near the forend, used to establish a poor mans barrel tuner if you will. Either this pressure needs to be consistent from shot to shot, or free floated altogether.</p><p></p><p>Bullet weights-Try a three shot group with starting loads at 180, 210, 225, and 250 grain weights (or those you are interested in). Your barrel may like a certain bullet weight/velocity range vs. others....no need beating your head/wallet against the wall, let the rifle tell you what it wants to shoot first, then fine tune.</p><p></p><p>Use a vice/brace/led sled type dvice to get the big precision/accuracy issues sorted out. That's a boomer, and it won't be fun while you sort this out. Rule yourself out as a variable until you get it calmed down, then go back to your proven shooting methods for fine tuning.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Autorotate, post: 426673, member: 8073"] If I saw this type of target, I'd look really hard (Dr. Rifle slow and thorough like) at the following- Optic-Do you have another rifle you can put the optic on, and just shoot a group with to make sure you didn't shake a the guts loose on the VX3. Optic mounting-Obvious visual inspection, then remove optic, remove rings, remove bases. Reassemble using a product like the Kokopelli alignment bars to ensure a stress free mount for your optic. If you don't have alignment bars, attempt to slowly and gently rotate your scope in the rings with the ring caps removed, exercising care not to mar your tube. If your scope acts bound up, that should serve as an indication that your optic mounting is putting stress in your optic. Reassemble and torque to mfg specs. Action screws-check to ensure you have those torqued to 55-65 in lbs. Most smiths will suggest the front screw needs to be torqued to final torque first, then the rear action screw. Barrel free float-you stated it is free floated, but most Wbys will have pressure point near the forend, used to establish a poor mans barrel tuner if you will. Either this pressure needs to be consistent from shot to shot, or free floated altogether. Bullet weights-Try a three shot group with starting loads at 180, 210, 225, and 250 grain weights (or those you are interested in). Your barrel may like a certain bullet weight/velocity range vs. others....no need beating your head/wallet against the wall, let the rifle tell you what it wants to shoot first, then fine tune. Use a vice/brace/led sled type dvice to get the big precision/accuracy issues sorted out. That's a boomer, and it won't be fun while you sort this out. Rule yourself out as a variable until you get it calmed down, then go back to your proven shooting methods for fine tuning. [/QUOTE]
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Weatherby 338-378 grouping issues
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