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<blockquote data-quote="tobnpr" data-source="post: 1503825" data-attributes="member: 68758"><p>I share your concern with barrel wall thickness. There is no agreement among experts, near as I can tell as to minimum thickness. General consensus that I have read is .100-.150 minimum.</p><p></p><p>Recently had a customer send me brake from a well known, popular manufacturer of brakes and custom rifles- along with his Tikka T3 Lite in .300 WM. Brake was also 1/2"-28 tpi, I called him and told him no-go.</p><p></p><p>He said he'd spoken to them before purchase, and he was told it wasn't optimal but could be used. So, I called and spoke with the company owner about it. He agreed it was borderline- but insisted that it would work as long things were done correctly on my end. Customer gave the go-ahead despite my misgivings, and while I was tempted to turn it down I did the work for him.</p><p></p><p>Why? A quick check of common assault and battle rifles that have been used and abused for many decades have less than what we consider optimal barrel wall thickness- and the fact that they have withstood the test of time without their muzzles cracking off led me to believe there's more to "this". We also know that being mass-produced in wartime, often in third-world countries- that its a safe bet class 3 threads were probably not to be counted upon.</p><p></p><p>How many tens of millions of AK's, with M14 muzzle threads and a barrel wall thickness of .073?</p><p></p><p>Same for the FAL- 9/16"-24 with a minor diameter of .513 leaves a barrel wall of just over .100 ( and I have threaded dozens of light contour Mosin-Nagant barrels like this).</p><p></p><p>This is a subject that comes up often, and as with everything firearms, huge safety margins are rightly recommended. I'm not disagreeing with you- just saying that the above examples are proof positive that less than optimal recommended thicknesses don't result in failure.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tobnpr, post: 1503825, member: 68758"] I share your concern with barrel wall thickness. There is no agreement among experts, near as I can tell as to minimum thickness. General consensus that I have read is .100-.150 minimum. Recently had a customer send me brake from a well known, popular manufacturer of brakes and custom rifles- along with his Tikka T3 Lite in .300 WM. Brake was also 1/2"-28 tpi, I called him and told him no-go. He said he'd spoken to them before purchase, and he was told it wasn't optimal but could be used. So, I called and spoke with the company owner about it. He agreed it was borderline- but insisted that it would work as long things were done correctly on my end. Customer gave the go-ahead despite my misgivings, and while I was tempted to turn it down I did the work for him. Why? A quick check of common assault and battle rifles that have been used and abused for many decades have less than what we consider optimal barrel wall thickness- and the fact that they have withstood the test of time without their muzzles cracking off led me to believe there's more to "this". We also know that being mass-produced in wartime, often in third-world countries- that its a safe bet class 3 threads were probably not to be counted upon. How many tens of millions of AK's, with M14 muzzle threads and a barrel wall thickness of .073? Same for the FAL- 9/16"-24 with a minor diameter of .513 leaves a barrel wall of just over .100 ( and I have threaded dozens of light contour Mosin-Nagant barrels like this). This is a subject that comes up often, and as with everything firearms, huge safety margins are rightly recommended. I'm not disagreeing with you- just saying that the above examples are proof positive that less than optimal recommended thicknesses don't result in failure. [/QUOTE]
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