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Hunting
Coyote Hunting - From 10 Yards to over 1,000 Yards
Varmint AR?
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<blockquote data-quote="DSheetz" data-source="post: 2740294" data-attributes="member: 91783"><p>A R rifles are quite similar to race cars; you mostly get out of them what you put into them. For now, it sounds like you have gotten off to a good start. One of the best things about the AR platform is they can be modified after the initial build as you figure out the changes that fit you. When you start with a good build to begin with you are already ahead of the game. There again what works for me might not work as well for you. Just keep studying them as you go, and you will get one that fits your needs. For my needs I went with a 20" 1:9 twist barrel, lapped the upper receiver to make sure that the barrel extension and the bolt raceway were true, used green loc-tite to bed the barrel to the receiver and adjusted the torque on the barrel nut to tune it for accuracy. I don't use an accuwedge to take the play out of the upper and lower receivers I have a hole drilled and tapped in my lower receiver that I have a set screw threaded into that touches the back takedown pin housing of the upper receiver. The set screw has a rubber cushion on in the end of it. My self I prefer a smooth side upper that is a side charging one so that I can use a cheek riser on my adjustable stock and it's just nicer for me as I have gotten used to it over the rear charging handle. As has been stated a good trigger is very helpful and there are several manufactures of then, I like a 2.5-3.5 lb trigger pull but again it's personal preference. Any one of good free float hand guards will work for you, I like one that covers the low-profile gas block. Myself I think that a good clamp on gas block is the way to go because it doesn't induce pressure points to the barrel as do the ones that are set screwed or pined to the barrel. Ensure that the gas tube is a good stainless steel and correctly aligned so it doesn't interfere with the function of the bolt carrier group. You want a good bolt fitted in your bolt carrier group as well, so it travels well in your upper receiver freely. A nice silent capture buffer spring and buffer are nice to have but not a must have, just a good, matched buffer and spring set up, so you don't have too much forward assist and slamming of your bolt carrier group or too much dewel time before closing. Like bolt action rifles A R 's seldom come out of the box just the way they will end up after we use them for a while. Best of luck and enjoy your learning experiences with them. Match your twist rate with your bullet weight, your powder burn rate with your barrel length you will just have a ton of fun doing it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DSheetz, post: 2740294, member: 91783"] A R rifles are quite similar to race cars; you mostly get out of them what you put into them. For now, it sounds like you have gotten off to a good start. One of the best things about the AR platform is they can be modified after the initial build as you figure out the changes that fit you. When you start with a good build to begin with you are already ahead of the game. There again what works for me might not work as well for you. Just keep studying them as you go, and you will get one that fits your needs. For my needs I went with a 20" 1:9 twist barrel, lapped the upper receiver to make sure that the barrel extension and the bolt raceway were true, used green loc-tite to bed the barrel to the receiver and adjusted the torque on the barrel nut to tune it for accuracy. I don't use an accuwedge to take the play out of the upper and lower receivers I have a hole drilled and tapped in my lower receiver that I have a set screw threaded into that touches the back takedown pin housing of the upper receiver. The set screw has a rubber cushion on in the end of it. My self I prefer a smooth side upper that is a side charging one so that I can use a cheek riser on my adjustable stock and it's just nicer for me as I have gotten used to it over the rear charging handle. As has been stated a good trigger is very helpful and there are several manufactures of then, I like a 2.5-3.5 lb trigger pull but again it's personal preference. Any one of good free float hand guards will work for you, I like one that covers the low-profile gas block. Myself I think that a good clamp on gas block is the way to go because it doesn't induce pressure points to the barrel as do the ones that are set screwed or pined to the barrel. Ensure that the gas tube is a good stainless steel and correctly aligned so it doesn't interfere with the function of the bolt carrier group. You want a good bolt fitted in your bolt carrier group as well, so it travels well in your upper receiver freely. A nice silent capture buffer spring and buffer are nice to have but not a must have, just a good, matched buffer and spring set up, so you don't have too much forward assist and slamming of your bolt carrier group or too much dewel time before closing. Like bolt action rifles A R 's seldom come out of the box just the way they will end up after we use them for a while. Best of luck and enjoy your learning experiences with them. Match your twist rate with your bullet weight, your powder burn rate with your barrel length you will just have a ton of fun doing it. [/QUOTE]
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Varmint AR?
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