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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Unable to remove stock. Any ideas?
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 732618" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>with a socket head cap screw it's almost always easier to just drill the head off right away. If you had a left hand drill bit that would have been better, but I'm betting that somewhere somebody overtorqued a dry stainless screw. Stainless are softer and weaker than carbon stell screws and their threads will deform under stress. There is no free lunch here. All stainless steel bolts are made of 316 SS steel, and the stuff is soft, but will work harden. The trick with drilling work hardend stainless steel screw is to get the drill bit to bite under the crust instead of just riding ontop of it. That's why I said to run the drill at about 150 rpm </p><p> </p><p>The idea of using a center drill is good, but be carefull of the tip breaking off (I've had this happen a couple zillion times). In theory the broken tip will just fall out, but not always! Break a carbide one in there, and you'll have the blues! I speak of hi-roc drills a lot on here, and I literally love them! They are made of a softer grade of carbide with a strait flute. Actually drill very accurate holes. I only wish they ground them in a left hand pattern. These drills will shatter into a bunch of small pieces before they'll weld themselves to whatever your drilling. Another good method is to use a two flute end mill to cut the bolt head off. This way it dosn't mess up the seating surface for the bolt head. </p><p> </p><p>How many of you folks own an air etcher and an air compressor? If you do your setting on one of the best small screw extracting setups on the planet. And it don't care if it's a left hand screw or a right handed screw.</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 732618, member: 25383"] with a socket head cap screw it's almost always easier to just drill the head off right away. If you had a left hand drill bit that would have been better, but I'm betting that somewhere somebody overtorqued a dry stainless screw. Stainless are softer and weaker than carbon stell screws and their threads will deform under stress. There is no free lunch here. All stainless steel bolts are made of 316 SS steel, and the stuff is soft, but will work harden. The trick with drilling work hardend stainless steel screw is to get the drill bit to bite under the crust instead of just riding ontop of it. That's why I said to run the drill at about 150 rpm The idea of using a center drill is good, but be carefull of the tip breaking off (I've had this happen a couple zillion times). In theory the broken tip will just fall out, but not always! Break a carbide one in there, and you'll have the blues! I speak of hi-roc drills a lot on here, and I literally love them! They are made of a softer grade of carbide with a strait flute. Actually drill very accurate holes. I only wish they ground them in a left hand pattern. These drills will shatter into a bunch of small pieces before they'll weld themselves to whatever your drilling. Another good method is to use a two flute end mill to cut the bolt head off. This way it dosn't mess up the seating surface for the bolt head. How many of you folks own an air etcher and an air compressor? If you do your setting on one of the best small screw extracting setups on the planet. And it don't care if it's a left hand screw or a right handed screw. gary [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Unable to remove stock. Any ideas?
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