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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
To load or not to load 80grain 223
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<blockquote data-quote="David Urasky" data-source="post: 2400840" data-attributes="member: 108550"><p>OMG, I can't believe there is such confusion and misconceptions about barrel twist requirements. Oh I guess I can. </p><p></p><p>The required barrel twist for any bullet is determined by the length of the bullet, not weight. Although you would think they go hand in hand. But I can have a longer bullet for the same weight based on different ogives, if it's a hollow point and if it has a boattail or not. A tool which can be used for any bullet is the Barrel Twist Calculator found at <a href="https://bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/" target="_blank">https://bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/</a>. Or you can calculate it with (C x D<sup>2</sup>) ÷ L = T. Where C=150, D is the diameter and L is the length of the bullet (<a href="https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2019/11/5/how-to-calculate-rifling-twist-rates-for-stabilizing-bullets" target="_blank">https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2019/11/5/how-to-calculate-rifling-twist-rates-for-stabilizing-bullets</a>). Notice weight is not considered. This is actually a very good article and would suggest it.</p><p></p><p>Now, required twist is not a given. Manufacturers provide a reqired MINIMUM twist. Meaning you can run a faster twist for a given bullet. But only to a point. If you spin a bullet too fast the jacket can actually fly apart from centripital force and the bullet not reach the target. I've seen this happen with custom bullets in F class guns. And, sometimes you can get away with a somewhat slower twist such as the 1:8 instead of the 1:7. </p><p></p><p>Go load some rounds and shoot the 80's through your 1:8 twist barrel. See how they do. If it doesn't work all that will happen is you will see "key holes" in your paper where the bullet has become unstable and has begun to tumble. Depending on the distance you're shooting you may not see this. But as the velocity and spin decay at distances it happens. Again I've seen it with 223's using the 80's at 1000 yards in F class competitions. But if you're only shooting 400 yards or less it may not be an issue.</p><p></p><p>So don't over think it. Try the 80's in the 1:8 twist barrel you won't hurt anything. You may be happy with the results.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="David Urasky, post: 2400840, member: 108550"] OMG, I can't believe there is such confusion and misconceptions about barrel twist requirements. Oh I guess I can. The required barrel twist for any bullet is determined by the length of the bullet, not weight. Although you would think they go hand in hand. But I can have a longer bullet for the same weight based on different ogives, if it's a hollow point and if it has a boattail or not. A tool which can be used for any bullet is the Barrel Twist Calculator found at [URL]https://bergerbullets.com/twist-rate-calculator/[/URL]. Or you can calculate it with (C x D[SUP]2[/SUP]) ÷ L = T. Where C=150, D is the diameter and L is the length of the bullet ([URL]https://www.ssusa.org/articles/2019/11/5/how-to-calculate-rifling-twist-rates-for-stabilizing-bullets[/URL]). Notice weight is not considered. This is actually a very good article and would suggest it. Now, required twist is not a given. Manufacturers provide a reqired MINIMUM twist. Meaning you can run a faster twist for a given bullet. But only to a point. If you spin a bullet too fast the jacket can actually fly apart from centripital force and the bullet not reach the target. I've seen this happen with custom bullets in F class guns. And, sometimes you can get away with a somewhat slower twist such as the 1:8 instead of the 1:7. Go load some rounds and shoot the 80's through your 1:8 twist barrel. See how they do. If it doesn't work all that will happen is you will see "key holes" in your paper where the bullet has become unstable and has begun to tumble. Depending on the distance you're shooting you may not see this. But as the velocity and spin decay at distances it happens. Again I've seen it with 223's using the 80's at 1000 yards in F class competitions. But if you're only shooting 400 yards or less it may not be an issue. So don't over think it. Try the 80's in the 1:8 twist barrel you won't hurt anything. You may be happy with the results. [/QUOTE]
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To load or not to load 80grain 223
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