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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
To Float or not to Float......
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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 194532" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>doublegobble00,</p><p>Take a rasp and file both of those fore end lumps back to flush,why the factories still do this fore end pressure rubbish is beyond me!</p><p>There is no other factory 'hoo hah' that is so detrimental to accuracy that hasn't been discovered yet,how any pressure on a barrel is going to help with accuracy is a joke!</p><p>If it is such a good thing,why do their top line models come 'free floating' and 'aluminium bedding', 'pillar bedding' and 'glass bedding'.</p><p>Removing your stocks to remove these lumps of wood will not be detrimental to your rifles accuracy in any way.If anything,it will help make it better.</p><p>When you do get the stocks off,DO NOT re tighten your action screws the same as the factory did.</p><p>Tighten the front bolt first,with an allen wrench,NOT a 'T' handle wrench,then the rear bolt,then the middle trigger guard bolt,this bolt only needs to be firm,to stop the magazine well from moving(on the Ruger only).</p><p>The post about the barrel not floating after you remove the lump,and the action going deeper into the stock is a semi truth,you need to remove material all along the barrel channel for it to work correctly,but leave some just in front of the action/barrel juncture.</p><p>The action is already touching the stock,if it wasn't,you would never keep your action bolts tight,they would loosen on each shot,that's how screw/bolts work,they have to be bearing on something when tightened,ask any gunsmith.</p><p>You can get away with pillar bedding these rifles,without the need to glass bed,because they already have good bedding in their stocks!</p><p>I think you need to speak to a qualified gunsmith to give you the correct info on how to go about this!</p><p>Good luck</p><p><strong>MagnumManiac</strong></p><p>gun)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 194532, member: 10755"] doublegobble00, Take a rasp and file both of those fore end lumps back to flush,why the factories still do this fore end pressure rubbish is beyond me! There is no other factory 'hoo hah' that is so detrimental to accuracy that hasn't been discovered yet,how any pressure on a barrel is going to help with accuracy is a joke! If it is such a good thing,why do their top line models come 'free floating' and 'aluminium bedding', 'pillar bedding' and 'glass bedding'. Removing your stocks to remove these lumps of wood will not be detrimental to your rifles accuracy in any way.If anything,it will help make it better. When you do get the stocks off,DO NOT re tighten your action screws the same as the factory did. Tighten the front bolt first,with an allen wrench,NOT a 'T' handle wrench,then the rear bolt,then the middle trigger guard bolt,this bolt only needs to be firm,to stop the magazine well from moving(on the Ruger only). The post about the barrel not floating after you remove the lump,and the action going deeper into the stock is a semi truth,you need to remove material all along the barrel channel for it to work correctly,but leave some just in front of the action/barrel juncture. The action is already touching the stock,if it wasn't,you would never keep your action bolts tight,they would loosen on each shot,that's how screw/bolts work,they have to be bearing on something when tightened,ask any gunsmith. You can get away with pillar bedding these rifles,without the need to glass bed,because they already have good bedding in their stocks! I think you need to speak to a qualified gunsmith to give you the correct info on how to go about this! Good luck [B]MagnumManiac[/B] gun) [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
To Float or not to Float......
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