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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
To dry lube or not? That’s the question!
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<blockquote data-quote="Veteran" data-source="post: 2307131" data-attributes="member: 118038"><p>Some Benchrest shooters and maybe even long range hunters here like to dry lube the bullet base or the necks to help cut down on </p><p>neck tension/friction because it helps the bullet seat easier and they believe it adds some accuracy, and lower Standard Dev and </p><p>ES. Its really optional. You can run your own tests or search youtube for videos of folks that do this.</p><p></p><p>I use a little bit of graphite dry lube on mine. Some pros use tungsten disulfide powders (WS2).</p><p></p><p>It's really up to you. One thing I noticed in your process I do differently is that I do not deprime or decap brass until after tumbling.</p><p>Too many times, when I clean primer pockets I have seen corn media stopping up the flash hole for the primer, and if I do not catch it, it will cause either a non uniform burn or a clicker. Its also a pain to get it out when I do I catch it, just takes more time.</p><p>So, I just decap after tumbling and before annealing. I did not see annealing on your list. </p><p></p><p>Folks here have found they either need to anneal every time, or at least every 2-3 times to get the full life out of the brass.</p><p></p><p>Also, most here like to full length resize every time and use bullet comparators to bump the shoulders by .002.</p><p>I don't do that every time, but I do it at least every 2-3 times, and may neck size in between. If you don't do it enough, you will </p><p>have case head separations from bad head spacing and you will also have trouble with chambering and ejecting shells.</p><p>It sort of depends some on whether you are shooting belted magnums, which are more sensitive to all these issues, and on your specific rifle chambering. </p><p></p><p>Good luck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Veteran, post: 2307131, member: 118038"] Some Benchrest shooters and maybe even long range hunters here like to dry lube the bullet base or the necks to help cut down on neck tension/friction because it helps the bullet seat easier and they believe it adds some accuracy, and lower Standard Dev and ES. Its really optional. You can run your own tests or search youtube for videos of folks that do this. I use a little bit of graphite dry lube on mine. Some pros use tungsten disulfide powders (WS2). It's really up to you. One thing I noticed in your process I do differently is that I do not deprime or decap brass until after tumbling. Too many times, when I clean primer pockets I have seen corn media stopping up the flash hole for the primer, and if I do not catch it, it will cause either a non uniform burn or a clicker. Its also a pain to get it out when I do I catch it, just takes more time. So, I just decap after tumbling and before annealing. I did not see annealing on your list. Folks here have found they either need to anneal every time, or at least every 2-3 times to get the full life out of the brass. Also, most here like to full length resize every time and use bullet comparators to bump the shoulders by .002. I don't do that every time, but I do it at least every 2-3 times, and may neck size in between. If you don't do it enough, you will have case head separations from bad head spacing and you will also have trouble with chambering and ejecting shells. It sort of depends some on whether you are shooting belted magnums, which are more sensitive to all these issues, and on your specific rifle chambering. Good luck. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
To dry lube or not? That’s the question!
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