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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Titanium
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<blockquote data-quote="Lasiter" data-source="post: 2354308" data-attributes="member: 80480"><p>Sticky metals: In general, metal-on-metal works best with dissimilar metals.</p><p>An example, early all-stainless semi-autos made with 300 series stainless steel. I presume the makers thought non-magnetic and rust-free, but the slides would weld themselves to the receivers.</p><p>Another example was metal-on-metal hip replacements. Same problem. My hip replacement uses a Ti ball in a UHMW polyethylene cup, and is still okay after ten years. I'm scheduled for a knee replacement which will use the same materials as the hip replacement.</p><p></p><p>Obvious exceptions are the millions of all carbon-steel guns that run fine with a little lubrication.</p><p></p><p>With titanium (or stainless), any stickiness that can't be fixed with a lubricant would be helped by a coating. Titanium nitride is a good, hard, thin coating. GLOCKs are coated with Tenifer, which is both hard and slick. It is similar to nickel boron and Melonite.</p><p></p><p>Another possibility is electroless nickel, which is slick, and can be applied in different thicknesses. I once improved a 1911 by plating the barrel bushing with .0002 electroless nickel. It provided a slick coating and tightened the bushing-to-barrel fit by .0004.</p><p>Suggestion: start by trying different lubricants in the problem area, then different coatings. I would avoid teflon coatings and ceracote because of their thicknesses.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasiter, post: 2354308, member: 80480"] Sticky metals: In general, metal-on-metal works best with dissimilar metals. An example, early all-stainless semi-autos made with 300 series stainless steel. I presume the makers thought non-magnetic and rust-free, but the slides would weld themselves to the receivers. Another example was metal-on-metal hip replacements. Same problem. My hip replacement uses a Ti ball in a UHMW polyethylene cup, and is still okay after ten years. I'm scheduled for a knee replacement which will use the same materials as the hip replacement. Obvious exceptions are the millions of all carbon-steel guns that run fine with a little lubrication. With titanium (or stainless), any stickiness that can't be fixed with a lubricant would be helped by a coating. Titanium nitride is a good, hard, thin coating. GLOCKs are coated with Tenifer, which is both hard and slick. It is similar to nickel boron and Melonite. Another possibility is electroless nickel, which is slick, and can be applied in different thicknesses. I once improved a 1911 by plating the barrel bushing with .0002 electroless nickel. It provided a slick coating and tightened the bushing-to-barrel fit by .0004. Suggestion: start by trying different lubricants in the problem area, then different coatings. I would avoid teflon coatings and ceracote because of their thicknesses. [/QUOTE]
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