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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
tikka owners please help with advice...
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<blockquote data-quote="Alaska_Seth" data-source="post: 541490" data-attributes="member: 33029"><p>Not at all, the screws that pinch the Saddle Mount or Ring mount down to the integral ring are not the bearing surface. Yes their shear strength is important, but they are easily 10 times as big as the screws you would use to bolt Talleys down to the top of the receiver.</p><p> </p><p>The most important part of the equation is that the those pinch bolts do not bear the shearing force themselves, they have the entire ring mount pad system to bear the shearing forces.</p><p> </p><p>The shearing forces on a traditional bolt in system like the Talley are all on the screw, and the screw is tiny. </p><p> </p><p>Look go down to Riverton or Cody to Rocky Mountain Sports and take a look at an integral mount on a Sako TRG or Tikka, and compare the bearing/shearing surfaces to that little 6x40 screw.</p><p> </p><p>Not everyone likes big clunky mounts, if you don't that's totally fine. Just don't expect a 6x40 screw to be as strong as something that has locking abuttments, recesses, and integral mounts that bear the shearing forces.</p><p> </p><p>My personal opinion on mounts has changed over the years. I used to be in love with Control Mounts, then I was a EAW guy, then I liked vertical split Talleys and Warnes, then I wanted the ring and base to be the all one unit like the Talley Ultralights, and now after 17 years of beating up military rifles I can see the beauty of integral mounts and more importantly saddle mount systems.</p><p> </p><p>Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I'll be the first to admit that. And big saddle mounts wouldn't win over someone like Jack O'Connor or Craig Boddington. But they are the strongest mount system we currently have.</p><p> </p><p>Another way to make your favorite Talley mount stronger is to cut a slice of steel between the ring holes on the receiver and another between the ring holes on the bottom of the mount. Then utilizing Bisonite or some other steel filled epoxy fill that area. Essentially you are building a recoil abuttment for the rings. It doesn't have to be very thick or deep, just big enough for some epoxy to fill in the space. You can use a cutting disk on a dremel. Of course after it dries you will need to lap your rings, as this might warp the mount a bit if you didn't apply epoxy evenly.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alaska_Seth, post: 541490, member: 33029"] Not at all, the screws that pinch the Saddle Mount or Ring mount down to the integral ring are not the bearing surface. Yes their shear strength is important, but they are easily 10 times as big as the screws you would use to bolt Talleys down to the top of the receiver. The most important part of the equation is that the those pinch bolts do not bear the shearing force themselves, they have the entire ring mount pad system to bear the shearing forces. The shearing forces on a traditional bolt in system like the Talley are all on the screw, and the screw is tiny. Look go down to Riverton or Cody to Rocky Mountain Sports and take a look at an integral mount on a Sako TRG or Tikka, and compare the bearing/shearing surfaces to that little 6x40 screw. Not everyone likes big clunky mounts, if you don't that's totally fine. Just don't expect a 6x40 screw to be as strong as something that has locking abuttments, recesses, and integral mounts that bear the shearing forces. My personal opinion on mounts has changed over the years. I used to be in love with Control Mounts, then I was a EAW guy, then I liked vertical split Talleys and Warnes, then I wanted the ring and base to be the all one unit like the Talley Ultralights, and now after 17 years of beating up military rifles I can see the beauty of integral mounts and more importantly saddle mount systems. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and I'll be the first to admit that. And big saddle mounts wouldn't win over someone like Jack O'Connor or Craig Boddington. But they are the strongest mount system we currently have. Another way to make your favorite Talley mount stronger is to cut a slice of steel between the ring holes on the receiver and another between the ring holes on the bottom of the mount. Then utilizing Bisonite or some other steel filled epoxy fill that area. Essentially you are building a recoil abuttment for the rings. It doesn't have to be very thick or deep, just big enough for some epoxy to fill in the space. You can use a cutting disk on a dremel. Of course after it dries you will need to lap your rings, as this might warp the mount a bit if you didn't apply epoxy evenly. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
tikka owners please help with advice...
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