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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Tikka 270/300wsm mags same oal?
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<blockquote data-quote="elkoholic72" data-source="post: 631802" data-attributes="member: 15559"><p>To answer some of the questions from PMs, I only use Cerakote. I do use both types, C-series air cure and H-series heat cure. I currently have 43 colors. </p><p>For the magazine follower, I have left one alone and machined another from a piece of plastic stock. It just depends on how far you are moving the verticle stop in the back. You want the follower to be to the rear, because it doesn't support anything in the front, except when the bolt is almost closed and the round is 60%+ chambered. The one I machined from plastic works fine, but wasn't really needed, just wanted to see if I could do it. I did read where Jason over at Tikkashooters was working on an aftermarket MAG with longer OAL, but not sure of the stauts.</p><p>I actually like the Tikka plasti mags, as they sit flush and allow for super smooth feeding on arguably the smoothest feeding bolt action made. I do have an AICS setup that works. But it added weight and the magazine is big and square and protrudes a lot further than I like to carry.</p><p>I have Karl Kampfeld do all my fluting. I feel he is much cheaper, especially if you send him 3-4 bolts at a time!! He has THE FASTEST turnaround time, hands down!! And he has the most options on fluting. His work has been flawless for me. The last time I sent him three Tikka bolts, I wanted two TI style spiral fluted RH, and one same but fluted LH. He had them back to me in a week for $210. </p><p>For those asking, YES, i hate the hole in the Tikka bolt handles. I drilled out the hole on my wife's bolt knob to accept a chopped off Nosler brass. I did soak the primer in water and then oil before loading it into the brass. I have also turned down a few and threaded the inside hole to accept a stud that could then accept any aftermarket bolt knob. You can also fill them with JB Weld and sand them down smooth if you are going to paint it. </p><p>Here are a few more pics. Thanks everyone who PMed me with compliments!!</p><p>Ben</p><p> </p><p> </p><p>[ATTACH]7748[/ATTACH]</p><p> </p><p>[ATTACH]7749[/ATTACH]</p><p> </p><p>[ATTACH]7750[/ATTACH]</p><p>Here is an Ithica that I coated in Titanium and Titanium blue that I refinished last week. It was covered in rust and the stock was white. It was left in a field for almost 15 years!!</p><p> </p><p>[ATTACH]7751[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="elkoholic72, post: 631802, member: 15559"] To answer some of the questions from PMs, I only use Cerakote. I do use both types, C-series air cure and H-series heat cure. I currently have 43 colors. For the magazine follower, I have left one alone and machined another from a piece of plastic stock. It just depends on how far you are moving the verticle stop in the back. You want the follower to be to the rear, because it doesn't support anything in the front, except when the bolt is almost closed and the round is 60%+ chambered. The one I machined from plastic works fine, but wasn't really needed, just wanted to see if I could do it. I did read where Jason over at Tikkashooters was working on an aftermarket MAG with longer OAL, but not sure of the stauts. I actually like the Tikka plasti mags, as they sit flush and allow for super smooth feeding on arguably the smoothest feeding bolt action made. I do have an AICS setup that works. But it added weight and the magazine is big and square and protrudes a lot further than I like to carry. I have Karl Kampfeld do all my fluting. I feel he is much cheaper, especially if you send him 3-4 bolts at a time!! He has THE FASTEST turnaround time, hands down!! And he has the most options on fluting. His work has been flawless for me. The last time I sent him three Tikka bolts, I wanted two TI style spiral fluted RH, and one same but fluted LH. He had them back to me in a week for $210. For those asking, YES, i hate the hole in the Tikka bolt handles. I drilled out the hole on my wife's bolt knob to accept a chopped off Nosler brass. I did soak the primer in water and then oil before loading it into the brass. I have also turned down a few and threaded the inside hole to accept a stud that could then accept any aftermarket bolt knob. You can also fill them with JB Weld and sand them down smooth if you are going to paint it. Here are a few more pics. Thanks everyone who PMed me with compliments!! Ben [ATTACH]7748.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]7749.vB[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]7750.vB[/ATTACH] Here is an Ithica that I coated in Titanium and Titanium blue that I refinished last week. It was covered in rust and the stock was white. It was left in a field for almost 15 years!! [ATTACH]7751[/ATTACH[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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Tikka 270/300wsm mags same oal?
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