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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Tikka 243 Bolt hard to close 25% of the time?
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<blockquote data-quote="westcliffe01" data-source="post: 2187811" data-attributes="member: 35183"><p>So closing the bolt with no round chambered is perfectly OK and you only get the resistance with a factory round ? </p><p></p><p>You could consider getting or borrowing a "GO" headspace gauge and seeing if the bolt will close on it. If not, then you have confirmed that something is wrong. </p><p></p><p>You could start by removing the bolt from the action and confirming that you can push your ejector pin flush with the surface of the bolt. If it will not go flush, there is something dimensionally wrong with the ejector pin/bolt and it will need to be fixed by the factory. With some negotiation perhaps you could arrange just to return the bolt instead of the entire rifle which is a lot more expensive both ways... If the ejector pin is not the problem then your chamber was cut too shallow. Thats a more major fix than the ejector...</p><p></p><p>You could also clean the bolt and action with some solvent to get any oil off and then apply blue to the back of the bolt logs and then repeat the bolt closing exercise 1 time on a cartridge and then remove the bolt to confirm you are getting contact on all 3 lugs. If not, either the machining of the bolt lugs or the action could be off and thats likely to require the factory to replace your rifle with one that is properly in spec.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="westcliffe01, post: 2187811, member: 35183"] So closing the bolt with no round chambered is perfectly OK and you only get the resistance with a factory round ? You could consider getting or borrowing a "GO" headspace gauge and seeing if the bolt will close on it. If not, then you have confirmed that something is wrong. You could start by removing the bolt from the action and confirming that you can push your ejector pin flush with the surface of the bolt. If it will not go flush, there is something dimensionally wrong with the ejector pin/bolt and it will need to be fixed by the factory. With some negotiation perhaps you could arrange just to return the bolt instead of the entire rifle which is a lot more expensive both ways... If the ejector pin is not the problem then your chamber was cut too shallow. Thats a more major fix than the ejector... You could also clean the bolt and action with some solvent to get any oil off and then apply blue to the back of the bolt logs and then repeat the bolt closing exercise 1 time on a cartridge and then remove the bolt to confirm you are getting contact on all 3 lugs. If not, either the machining of the bolt lugs or the action could be off and thats likely to require the factory to replace your rifle with one that is properly in spec. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Tikka 243 Bolt hard to close 25% of the time?
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