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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
The supposed 'magical' muzzle brake
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<blockquote data-quote="Tesoro" data-source="post: 1433460" data-attributes="member: 44340"><p>Made my visit today. Small shop one man operation. Just my style. He does make a 'tactical' muffler style version with only side and top vents as well as the conventional radial type.</p><p></p><p>He claims the sound is reduced to the same apparent blast as shooting a straight barrel but the tone is somewhat different..not any worse on your ears. He hasnt tested the sound with a meter but he said everyone who shoots them agrees its no worse than without and some say better ( on the ears). The flip is reduced significantly and the testing he has done with his sled produced low 40% recoil reduction and up to 50% on certain configs. He has been making these locally for many years. He isnt interested in doing more than this. His main shootin iron is a 264 winmag and claims he sees his hits when hunting.</p><p></p><p>For the tunable version he recommends shooting your test loads until you find the one with the best SD and then put on the tuner/brake to dial in the groups for that load. I have to do some thinking on this.</p><p></p><p>To install a tunable version he turns down and flutes the last .5 in or so of the barrel, reducing the diameter to about 75%. The flutes are .1 inch apart. He then turns the barrel behind the fluted tip for threading on the brake. He then indexes the barrel just behind the treading with hash marks micrometer style. When you have it tuned you screw down a small set screw into the valley bottom of the closest flute. He said that you dont need any more precision on the tuning than .1 inch turn increments. Once it is tuned you note the indexing as the brake needs to be taken apart and cleaned every so often as it will carbon up. I forgot to ask how many shots on average it takes to gunk up.</p><p></p><p>He does the fluting method because it is different from the Browning Boss patent system so he dosent infringe on their patent.</p><p></p><p>I brought him my conventional radial brake off my creed so that he can make one of his tac versions up for me using my brake dia and threading. I'll go back in a week with my rifle so he can finish the install by threading his brake to line up correctly with the threading of my barrel. </p><p></p><p>When done I will have a bare barrel, conventional brake and his suppressed brake to compare. $200 dollar experiment but I have faith in the fellow and the local hunters who back him. Attached is a pic of the tuner brake on one of his 22 rifles.</p><p></p><p>To try out the adjustable brake means you would have to butcher your barrel. Without the brake on you would have a straight barrel that is threaded at the end but then with a 1/2 inch long smaller diameter fluted tip poking out in front. I guess if one wanted to have a tuner one would keep it on all the time anyhow.</p><p></p><p>That grizzly noise redirector looks like it wold be great for my 16in light varmint 223 ar barrel but too bulky for my conventional hunting rifles.</p><p></p><p>Thats all I know for now.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tesoro, post: 1433460, member: 44340"] Made my visit today. Small shop one man operation. Just my style. He does make a 'tactical' muffler style version with only side and top vents as well as the conventional radial type. He claims the sound is reduced to the same apparent blast as shooting a straight barrel but the tone is somewhat different..not any worse on your ears. He hasnt tested the sound with a meter but he said everyone who shoots them agrees its no worse than without and some say better ( on the ears). The flip is reduced significantly and the testing he has done with his sled produced low 40% recoil reduction and up to 50% on certain configs. He has been making these locally for many years. He isnt interested in doing more than this. His main shootin iron is a 264 winmag and claims he sees his hits when hunting. For the tunable version he recommends shooting your test loads until you find the one with the best SD and then put on the tuner/brake to dial in the groups for that load. I have to do some thinking on this. To install a tunable version he turns down and flutes the last .5 in or so of the barrel, reducing the diameter to about 75%. The flutes are .1 inch apart. He then turns the barrel behind the fluted tip for threading on the brake. He then indexes the barrel just behind the treading with hash marks micrometer style. When you have it tuned you screw down a small set screw into the valley bottom of the closest flute. He said that you dont need any more precision on the tuning than .1 inch turn increments. Once it is tuned you note the indexing as the brake needs to be taken apart and cleaned every so often as it will carbon up. I forgot to ask how many shots on average it takes to gunk up. He does the fluting method because it is different from the Browning Boss patent system so he dosent infringe on their patent. I brought him my conventional radial brake off my creed so that he can make one of his tac versions up for me using my brake dia and threading. I'll go back in a week with my rifle so he can finish the install by threading his brake to line up correctly with the threading of my barrel. When done I will have a bare barrel, conventional brake and his suppressed brake to compare. $200 dollar experiment but I have faith in the fellow and the local hunters who back him. Attached is a pic of the tuner brake on one of his 22 rifles. To try out the adjustable brake means you would have to butcher your barrel. Without the brake on you would have a straight barrel that is threaded at the end but then with a 1/2 inch long smaller diameter fluted tip poking out in front. I guess if one wanted to have a tuner one would keep it on all the time anyhow. That grizzly noise redirector looks like it wold be great for my 16in light varmint 223 ar barrel but too bulky for my conventional hunting rifles. Thats all I know for now. [/QUOTE]
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The supposed 'magical' muzzle brake
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