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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Switching bullets effecting zero?
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<blockquote data-quote="codyadams" data-source="post: 1901174" data-attributes="member: 87243"><p>This is assuming that the rifle was a proven, squared away rifle prior to this happening.</p><p></p><p>First thing, check that all rifle and optic fasteners are secure. This can head off some tail chasing. Then load up ammo and shoot at 100 to confirm zero. This will tell you if that changed, only cost 3-5 rounds, and accuracy will give you an idea where to go from there. Good accuracy, but .4 MIL low, POI change, log that in your mental notebook, and re-zero, shoot some steel for fun to confirm drops are still good. Crappy accuracy.....many things possible, start with the basics. I have heard of issues arising from switching bullets, but the results were often varied from excessive copper fouling, carbon ring, rifle action screws coming loose, scope mount screws coming loose, scopes (even high end, $2000+ optics) breaking, and so on. For bad accuracy on a once proven rifle, this is roughly the route I would take, depending upon scenario - </p><p></p><p>A - </p><p>If some fasteners were loose, torque them properly, possibly with blue lock tight depending on application, then check 100 yard accuracy/zero, and re-zero and carry on if accuracy is good. If accuracy is bad, move to next step.</p><p></p><p>B - </p><p>If all the rifle and optic fasteners never came loose, and accuracy suffered, that narrows it down. Either something in the bore, or something in the optic. I would switch optic with a known good one first, simply out of curiosity, I would want to know if the different jackets caused the issue. If accuracy is good, it was the optic, go from there on warranty, etc. Still bad, that leaves the barrel. Clean the bore down to bare metal, test for accuracy again. Still poor accuracy after cleaning bore and giving proper fouling rounds with a proven optic, put the optic back on your other gun and check to make sure something didn't happen while on the other gun. I have seen one specific gun that liked to kill scopes, a Ruger mini 14. I know that isn't the case here, but if mounts aren't right they could cause issues, so it is always good to double check when trouble shooting to rule any possibilities out. </p><p></p><p>At this point, everything has been checked and double checked on a once good shooting rifle, all seems well accept accuracy, if you have a bore scope you can check tha out, see if possibly voids in the rifling from faulty steel arose and began causing issues, or have your smith do it. Though rare, this has happened even with high end (Krieger, Brux, Bartlien, Proof, etc.) barrels, they simply get a round of steel that has voids that didn't appear in manufacturing, but after some rounds down the tube they came up. If you don't have a bore scope, take it to a smith to be inspected. If this is the case, as long as the bore hasn't been nitrided or some other chemical treatment done, Proof will more than likely replace the barrel for you after you send it in to them, free of charge. You will still have to pay your smith to install it.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps, just report back whatever you find, would like to hear the resolution. Hopefully it's a simple one!!!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="codyadams, post: 1901174, member: 87243"] This is assuming that the rifle was a proven, squared away rifle prior to this happening. First thing, check that all rifle and optic fasteners are secure. This can head off some tail chasing. Then load up ammo and shoot at 100 to confirm zero. This will tell you if that changed, only cost 3-5 rounds, and accuracy will give you an idea where to go from there. Good accuracy, but .4 MIL low, POI change, log that in your mental notebook, and re-zero, shoot some steel for fun to confirm drops are still good. Crappy accuracy.....many things possible, start with the basics. I have heard of issues arising from switching bullets, but the results were often varied from excessive copper fouling, carbon ring, rifle action screws coming loose, scope mount screws coming loose, scopes (even high end, $2000+ optics) breaking, and so on. For bad accuracy on a once proven rifle, this is roughly the route I would take, depending upon scenario - A - If some fasteners were loose, torque them properly, possibly with blue lock tight depending on application, then check 100 yard accuracy/zero, and re-zero and carry on if accuracy is good. If accuracy is bad, move to next step. B - If all the rifle and optic fasteners never came loose, and accuracy suffered, that narrows it down. Either something in the bore, or something in the optic. I would switch optic with a known good one first, simply out of curiosity, I would want to know if the different jackets caused the issue. If accuracy is good, it was the optic, go from there on warranty, etc. Still bad, that leaves the barrel. Clean the bore down to bare metal, test for accuracy again. Still poor accuracy after cleaning bore and giving proper fouling rounds with a proven optic, put the optic back on your other gun and check to make sure something didn't happen while on the other gun. I have seen one specific gun that liked to kill scopes, a Ruger mini 14. I know that isn't the case here, but if mounts aren't right they could cause issues, so it is always good to double check when trouble shooting to rule any possibilities out. At this point, everything has been checked and double checked on a once good shooting rifle, all seems well accept accuracy, if you have a bore scope you can check tha out, see if possibly voids in the rifling from faulty steel arose and began causing issues, or have your smith do it. Though rare, this has happened even with high end (Krieger, Brux, Bartlien, Proof, etc.) barrels, they simply get a round of steel that has voids that didn't appear in manufacturing, but after some rounds down the tube they came up. If you don't have a bore scope, take it to a smith to be inspected. If this is the case, as long as the bore hasn't been nitrided or some other chemical treatment done, Proof will more than likely replace the barrel for you after you send it in to them, free of charge. You will still have to pay your smith to install it. Hope this helps, just report back whatever you find, would like to hear the resolution. Hopefully it's a simple one!!!! [/QUOTE]
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Switching bullets effecting zero?
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