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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
supporter fiction v facts: Ruger v Tikka
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<blockquote data-quote="bdyal1972" data-source="post: 1975601" data-attributes="member: 50039"><p>I always start with sweets 7.62 or an ammonia</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>I always start with an ammonia based cleaner and use a couple different brands of copper cleaner, cleaning, soaking the barrel, PLASTIC BRUSH 1 CALIBER BIGGER THAN BARREL.</p><p></p><p>I ALWAYS use a bore guide...</p><p></p><p>I ALWAYS CAREFULLY use a coated rod!</p><p></p><p>I always soak the barrel and let it sit 30, 90 minutes, sometimes over night... depends on the cleaner....</p><p></p><p>I examine the bore with a $100 borehole from harbor freight. </p><p></p><p>When no copper OR powder is present I tune the trigger, polish bearing surfaces and if necessary change springs, I like lighter firing pins and HEAVIER FIRING PIN SPRINGS....</p><p></p><p>I ALWAYS STRIP THE STOCKS TO BARE WOOD!!!</p><p></p><p>I ENLARGE THE BARREL CHANNEL UNTIL THERE IS 1/8" TO 1/4" CLEARANCE TO BARREL!!!</p><p></p><p>I ADD A SLING SWIVEL FOR A HARRIS BIPOD AND GLASS BED ALL 3 SWIVEL INCLUDING A WASHER FOR ADDED SUPPORT ON BOTTOM AND 2 WASHERS ON TOP OF THE FRONT 2....</p><p></p><p>I then clean up the checkering and color the wood with a stain, wood burning with propane or both....</p><p></p><p>Then I glass bed the ENTIRE action AND barrel channel, usually add pillars, i want 13 layers of masking tape clearance, 1/16" clearance minimum....</p><p></p><p>I want a Douglas fir needle, ponderosa pine needle or hemlock needle to FALL OUT if it gets between barrel channel and barrel.</p><p></p><p>I like to use marine tex, Accra glass is good, I have also had great success in m1a1 type rifles with plastic bonds in conjunction with pillars and screws on front and back action blocks....</p><p></p><p>After this I ALWAYS RECROWN BARREL, RETHREAD BARREL MUZZLE AND ADD A BRAKE 90% OF THE TIME AND LAST 10? YEARS FIT A LIMBSAVER RECOIL PAD USUALLY...</p><p></p><p>I mount scope, boresight and blue threadlocker EVERY SCREW ON RIFLE!!!</p><p></p><p>I START OFF WITH 3 OF THE HEAVIEST BULLETS I LIKE, 3 of the lightest I like, lod them up 10% off of max load 1,5,10,15,20 thousandths off of the lands</p><p></p><p>Let the rifle tell me what it likes @ 200 or 250 yards on a 4'x8' piece of butcher paper with 2" black round stickers every 24" observe from bench with cheap $100 spotting scope from the 90s and go from there to try and tune a load from the bench...</p><p></p><p>Tubbs final finish is just a way to lap a barrel.</p><p></p><p>10 rounds 80 grit</p><p></p><p>10 rounds 200 grit</p><p></p><p>10 rounds 800 grit</p><p></p><p>10 rounds 2000 grit...</p><p></p><p>That is representative NOT ACTUAL GRITS</p><p></p><p>You get the idea...</p><p></p><p>IT WORKS!!!</p><p></p><p>I GOT A MARLIN 45/70 FOR $50 AT A PAWN SHOP. wood was worn, bluing gone from the where the previous owner carried it, NO SLING SWIVELS, BARREL WAS SHINY....</p><p>I REFINISHED WOOD, RE DID SPRINGS, TRIGGER ETC, CERACOAT.....</p><p></p><p>SHOT SHOT GUN SPREADS WITH NEW GLOBE FRONT PEEP REAR SIGHT ON 26" BARREL...</p><p></p><p>PICKED UP MY A2 and put a mag of green tip in b27 at 500 yards.... pride was better, it had been a few years and thought I had forgotten how to shoot...</p><p></p><p>Long story short.</p><p></p><p>Did my barrel cleaning program AND COPIED tubbs final finish protocol with 7 or 8 progressive lapping compounds from machine shop at work...</p><p></p><p>300 grain lead @2500 fps, 415 lead Hardcastle @2400 fps...</p><p></p><p>4" 5 shot groups @200 yards with peep sights...</p><p></p><p>300 grain soft lead impacting a 70# coyote head on at 250 yards is IMPRESSIVE!!!</p><p></p><p>A BUDDY WHO IS A GUIDE BASED OUT OF SOUTH EAST ALASKA HAS BEEN CARRYING THIS RIFLE AS HIS LIGHT RIFLE 10 YEARS....</p><p></p><p>HIS HEAVY, 458 LOTT, 2X SCOPE, SWING MOUNTS, 26" BARREL PLUS BRAKE....</p><p></p><p>500 grain at almost 2500 fps....</p><p></p><p>Goes through brown bear and moose stem to Stearns</p><p></p><p>He shoots both rifle for coyotes, deer, elk etc</p><p></p><p>Like watching wingshooting with a rifle...</p><p></p><p>Anyway hope this helps...</p><p></p><p>FIRELAPPING is a great tool!!!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bdyal1972, post: 1975601, member: 50039"] I always start with sweets 7.62 or an ammonia I always start with an ammonia based cleaner and use a couple different brands of copper cleaner, cleaning, soaking the barrel, PLASTIC BRUSH 1 CALIBER BIGGER THAN BARREL. I ALWAYS use a bore guide... I ALWAYS CAREFULLY use a coated rod! I always soak the barrel and let it sit 30, 90 minutes, sometimes over night... depends on the cleaner.... I examine the bore with a $100 borehole from harbor freight. When no copper OR powder is present I tune the trigger, polish bearing surfaces and if necessary change springs, I like lighter firing pins and HEAVIER FIRING PIN SPRINGS.... I ALWAYS STRIP THE STOCKS TO BARE WOOD!!! I ENLARGE THE BARREL CHANNEL UNTIL THERE IS 1/8" TO 1/4" CLEARANCE TO BARREL!!! I ADD A SLING SWIVEL FOR A HARRIS BIPOD AND GLASS BED ALL 3 SWIVEL INCLUDING A WASHER FOR ADDED SUPPORT ON BOTTOM AND 2 WASHERS ON TOP OF THE FRONT 2.... I then clean up the checkering and color the wood with a stain, wood burning with propane or both.... Then I glass bed the ENTIRE action AND barrel channel, usually add pillars, i want 13 layers of masking tape clearance, 1/16" clearance minimum.... I want a Douglas fir needle, ponderosa pine needle or hemlock needle to FALL OUT if it gets between barrel channel and barrel. I like to use marine tex, Accra glass is good, I have also had great success in m1a1 type rifles with plastic bonds in conjunction with pillars and screws on front and back action blocks.... After this I ALWAYS RECROWN BARREL, RETHREAD BARREL MUZZLE AND ADD A BRAKE 90% OF THE TIME AND LAST 10? YEARS FIT A LIMBSAVER RECOIL PAD USUALLY... I mount scope, boresight and blue threadlocker EVERY SCREW ON RIFLE!!! I START OFF WITH 3 OF THE HEAVIEST BULLETS I LIKE, 3 of the lightest I like, lod them up 10% off of max load 1,5,10,15,20 thousandths off of the lands Let the rifle tell me what it likes @ 200 or 250 yards on a 4'x8' piece of butcher paper with 2" black round stickers every 24" observe from bench with cheap $100 spotting scope from the 90s and go from there to try and tune a load from the bench... Tubbs final finish is just a way to lap a barrel. 10 rounds 80 grit 10 rounds 200 grit 10 rounds 800 grit 10 rounds 2000 grit... That is representative NOT ACTUAL GRITS You get the idea... IT WORKS!!! I GOT A MARLIN 45/70 FOR $50 AT A PAWN SHOP. wood was worn, bluing gone from the where the previous owner carried it, NO SLING SWIVELS, BARREL WAS SHINY.... I REFINISHED WOOD, RE DID SPRINGS, TRIGGER ETC, CERACOAT..... SHOT SHOT GUN SPREADS WITH NEW GLOBE FRONT PEEP REAR SIGHT ON 26" BARREL... PICKED UP MY A2 and put a mag of green tip in b27 at 500 yards.... pride was better, it had been a few years and thought I had forgotten how to shoot... Long story short. Did my barrel cleaning program AND COPIED tubbs final finish protocol with 7 or 8 progressive lapping compounds from machine shop at work... 300 grain lead @2500 fps, 415 lead Hardcastle @2400 fps... 4" 5 shot groups @200 yards with peep sights... 300 grain soft lead impacting a 70# coyote head on at 250 yards is IMPRESSIVE!!! A BUDDY WHO IS A GUIDE BASED OUT OF SOUTH EAST ALASKA HAS BEEN CARRYING THIS RIFLE AS HIS LIGHT RIFLE 10 YEARS.... HIS HEAVY, 458 LOTT, 2X SCOPE, SWING MOUNTS, 26" BARREL PLUS BRAKE.... 500 grain at almost 2500 fps.... Goes through brown bear and moose stem to Stearns He shoots both rifle for coyotes, deer, elk etc Like watching wingshooting with a rifle... Anyway hope this helps... FIRELAPPING is a great tool!!! [/QUOTE]
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