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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Steel vs Aluminum scope bases.
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 604054" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>Jeff...</p><p> </p><p>Without violating any tennets of this site, lets just say I manufacture custom and high performance motorcycle accessories in stainless and aluminum.</p><p> </p><p>And I tinker too, with guns, mostly target pistols, which is my passion and of course reloading because one, I'm cheap and two I like controlled ballistics.</p><p> </p><p>When I removed the rail on the Savage (I removed it primarily to indicate each mounting boss and counter a post in another thread that the 111LRH rail comes in a 0 (flat base). It's a 10 degree cant. Either that, or the receiver is tapered and I don't believe it is.... The base is radiused to match (I assume) the od of the receiver. I didn't check the radii on either the base or the receiver (with Dykem) I just reattached it and put a dab of blue threadlocker on each of the 3 mounting fasteners and torqued them to 35 inch pounds. There was no discernable rock in the rail in either axis prior to reattaching. I physically attempted to rock it in both axis. I did check the rail with a good straight edge (Starrett diemakers square) and it was square and parallel with no evident twist.</p><p> </p><p>Is that acceptable or should I remove it, blue it and recheck it? I have the capabilities of fixturing the entire action on a surface plate and checking all dimensions for squareness and parallelism but it seems a bit of overkill. I'm a long, long way from being even a run of the mill long range bullseye puncher....<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite8" alt=":D" title="Big Grin :D" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":D" /></p><p> </p><p>Just getting into this LR stuff and LR is like ultra precision machining. A little error compounds the end result appreciably.</p><p> </p><p>Your input would be appreciated.</p><p> </p><p>You obviously (at least as I see it) get your hands dirty with this stuff more than I ever have.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 604054, member: 39764"] Jeff... Without violating any tennets of this site, lets just say I manufacture custom and high performance motorcycle accessories in stainless and aluminum. And I tinker too, with guns, mostly target pistols, which is my passion and of course reloading because one, I'm cheap and two I like controlled ballistics. When I removed the rail on the Savage (I removed it primarily to indicate each mounting boss and counter a post in another thread that the 111LRH rail comes in a 0 (flat base). It's a 10 degree cant. Either that, or the receiver is tapered and I don't believe it is.... The base is radiused to match (I assume) the od of the receiver. I didn't check the radii on either the base or the receiver (with Dykem) I just reattached it and put a dab of blue threadlocker on each of the 3 mounting fasteners and torqued them to 35 inch pounds. There was no discernable rock in the rail in either axis prior to reattaching. I physically attempted to rock it in both axis. I did check the rail with a good straight edge (Starrett diemakers square) and it was square and parallel with no evident twist. Is that acceptable or should I remove it, blue it and recheck it? I have the capabilities of fixturing the entire action on a surface plate and checking all dimensions for squareness and parallelism but it seems a bit of overkill. I'm a long, long way from being even a run of the mill long range bullseye puncher....:D Just getting into this LR stuff and LR is like ultra precision machining. A little error compounds the end result appreciably. Your input would be appreciated. You obviously (at least as I see it) get your hands dirty with this stuff more than I ever have. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Steel vs Aluminum scope bases.
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