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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Sightron Question for Nate Haler
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<blockquote data-quote="PrimeTime" data-source="post: 13930" data-attributes="member: 54"><p>Jim-</p><p>A drop chart is based with a 100 yard zero. You can do it in increments of 50 yards. Just sight dead on at 100 and then set the external knob on "0". You can then run a ballistic program or just shoot at varying distances using a large target area and actually measure the real life drop.</p><p>Let's say at 500 yards, your drop is 50 inches. You divide 50 inches by 5 (since 500 is obviously 5 sets of 100 yards) and set your elevation at 10 inches. If the distance is 300 yards and the drop is 12 inches, divide 12 by 3 and turn the scope up 4 inches. At 1,000, with a drop of 250 inches, divide 250 by 10. It's based on the 100 yard zero. I hope that is not too confusing but once you do it a few tomes, it's pretty simple. All you need to know is the BC of the bullet and the velocity at which you are shooting it. Then enter that info into a ballistic program (like JBM ballistics which is free and online) and it will give you the drop in inches at any yardage up to 2000 yards. I then do the division to get the actual scope inches I would need to be dead on at each yardage. Write it down a small piece of paper and take with you to the range. Check the chart, adjust scope and see how close you come. You may have to make minor adjustments but it should get you very close. </p><p>I don't like the mil-dot but that is just my opinion. A simple fine duplex fits my needs and works well. </p><p>The Sightron would work well for you and the weaver's are actually very repeateable as well. I just bought a Weaver Grand Slam 6-20 and it tracks extremely accurately. It cost $309. Hope this helps, maybe someone can explain the drop/inches/adjustment method better but that's how I do it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="PrimeTime, post: 13930, member: 54"] Jim- A drop chart is based with a 100 yard zero. You can do it in increments of 50 yards. Just sight dead on at 100 and then set the external knob on "0". You can then run a ballistic program or just shoot at varying distances using a large target area and actually measure the real life drop. Let's say at 500 yards, your drop is 50 inches. You divide 50 inches by 5 (since 500 is obviously 5 sets of 100 yards) and set your elevation at 10 inches. If the distance is 300 yards and the drop is 12 inches, divide 12 by 3 and turn the scope up 4 inches. At 1,000, with a drop of 250 inches, divide 250 by 10. It's based on the 100 yard zero. I hope that is not too confusing but once you do it a few tomes, it's pretty simple. All you need to know is the BC of the bullet and the velocity at which you are shooting it. Then enter that info into a ballistic program (like JBM ballistics which is free and online) and it will give you the drop in inches at any yardage up to 2000 yards. I then do the division to get the actual scope inches I would need to be dead on at each yardage. Write it down a small piece of paper and take with you to the range. Check the chart, adjust scope and see how close you come. You may have to make minor adjustments but it should get you very close. I don't like the mil-dot but that is just my opinion. A simple fine duplex fits my needs and works well. The Sightron would work well for you and the weaver's are actually very repeateable as well. I just bought a Weaver Grand Slam 6-20 and it tracks extremely accurately. It cost $309. Hope this helps, maybe someone can explain the drop/inches/adjustment method better but that's how I do it. [/QUOTE]
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Sightron Question for Nate Haler
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