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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Shooting lighter weight rifles?
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<blockquote data-quote=".300 Dakota" data-source="post: 1980279" data-attributes="member: 106514"><p>You can try applying one, two, or three pressure points underneath the barrel channel with something like non-drying modeling clay. It's trial and error, and plenty of "experts" laugh and scoff at the idea, but more often than not, I get these light barrels really dialed in with placing small balls of this clay along the barrel channel and then pressing the barreled action into the stock. Take it to the range, and make adjustments if needed. I have had it make it decidedly worse, too, but only once or twice was there no change. Works great in budget factory guns like the Savage Axis, Remington 710 or similar, and Mossberg ATR. I will get lambasted for this idea, but if you try it, you'll have a different opinion whether you admit it or not. The clay is good because it absorbs vibration. The non-drying really doesn't dry (had an argument with a gunsmith about this point). I just took apart an Axis that the clay drew in from 3 1/2" down to 1/2" groups and the clay was still pliable over 2 years later. Took 3 pieces for that rifle. 1st about 4 inches forward of the chamber, 2nd about 2 inches beyond that, and the third about 3 inches beyond that. Still not within 3 inches of the tip of the forend.</p><p></p><p>Having said that: It is something to try, but you SHOULDN'T have to "try" anything with a properly fitted custom gun. We can argue mechanics of trigger pull and weight all day, but if you have a Jewell or similar competition trigger set down around a pound or a little less, it eliminates that variable from the equation and makes it virtually impossible to "pull off" when you shoot. Yes, you can shoot just as accurately with a heavier trigger if you really take your time and pay attention. Some of the higher end scopes will have a crosshair picture that doesn't move as your eye moves. Visit your LGS and take a look through several to verify this. Having a scope centered on your target dot no matter where your head position is on the stock is worth the price of the lowest end model you find that does this along with your other requirements for your optic.</p><p></p><p>Finally, how many rounds do you have down the bore? I built a .300 Dakota with a Douglas 27" Remington Magnum contour barrel on a Winchester 70 push feed action. It shot ok until the 40th round was fired, and all of a sudden began spitting out 1/4" groups. You may just need to polish the inside up a little more. I have a Bartlein now with 40 or so rounds shot and it isn't broken in yet. Accuracy reflects that, also.</p><p></p><p>One last thing to try is Barnes TTSX bullets. Some rifles love them, and some hate them. If yours likes them, it will shine above anything else you've shot. Start with the recommended .050" jump distance. The Hornady GMX may work, too. I've had more than one rifle suddenly go from the trade block to tack driver status by simply using this bullet.</p><p></p><p>If, after you have tried all the above, along with Berger seated exactly touching the lands, and it still doesn't shoot well, it's time to change barrels or actions or both. Good luck with this thing!</p><p></p><p>P.S. The thing the guys above me are saying about the bags is very true also. Accuracy will improve over a lead sled or similar device that supports the gun for you. I can't explain it, but it has to do with the consistency of the pressure applied to points along the stock by you as you hold and fire the rifle. Bags work better.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE=".300 Dakota, post: 1980279, member: 106514"] You can try applying one, two, or three pressure points underneath the barrel channel with something like non-drying modeling clay. It's trial and error, and plenty of "experts" laugh and scoff at the idea, but more often than not, I get these light barrels really dialed in with placing small balls of this clay along the barrel channel and then pressing the barreled action into the stock. Take it to the range, and make adjustments if needed. I have had it make it decidedly worse, too, but only once or twice was there no change. Works great in budget factory guns like the Savage Axis, Remington 710 or similar, and Mossberg ATR. I will get lambasted for this idea, but if you try it, you'll have a different opinion whether you admit it or not. The clay is good because it absorbs vibration. The non-drying really doesn't dry (had an argument with a gunsmith about this point). I just took apart an Axis that the clay drew in from 3 1/2" down to 1/2" groups and the clay was still pliable over 2 years later. Took 3 pieces for that rifle. 1st about 4 inches forward of the chamber, 2nd about 2 inches beyond that, and the third about 3 inches beyond that. Still not within 3 inches of the tip of the forend. Having said that: It is something to try, but you SHOULDN'T have to "try" anything with a properly fitted custom gun. We can argue mechanics of trigger pull and weight all day, but if you have a Jewell or similar competition trigger set down around a pound or a little less, it eliminates that variable from the equation and makes it virtually impossible to "pull off" when you shoot. Yes, you can shoot just as accurately with a heavier trigger if you really take your time and pay attention. Some of the higher end scopes will have a crosshair picture that doesn't move as your eye moves. Visit your LGS and take a look through several to verify this. Having a scope centered on your target dot no matter where your head position is on the stock is worth the price of the lowest end model you find that does this along with your other requirements for your optic. Finally, how many rounds do you have down the bore? I built a .300 Dakota with a Douglas 27" Remington Magnum contour barrel on a Winchester 70 push feed action. It shot ok until the 40th round was fired, and all of a sudden began spitting out 1/4" groups. You may just need to polish the inside up a little more. I have a Bartlein now with 40 or so rounds shot and it isn't broken in yet. Accuracy reflects that, also. One last thing to try is Barnes TTSX bullets. Some rifles love them, and some hate them. If yours likes them, it will shine above anything else you've shot. Start with the recommended .050" jump distance. The Hornady GMX may work, too. I've had more than one rifle suddenly go from the trade block to tack driver status by simply using this bullet. If, after you have tried all the above, along with Berger seated exactly touching the lands, and it still doesn't shoot well, it's time to change barrels or actions or both. Good luck with this thing! P.S. The thing the guys above me are saying about the bags is very true also. Accuracy will improve over a lead sled or similar device that supports the gun for you. I can't explain it, but it has to do with the consistency of the pressure applied to points along the stock by you as you hold and fire the rifle. Bags work better. [/QUOTE]
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