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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
sheared base screws
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<blockquote data-quote="codyadams" data-source="post: 1883649" data-attributes="member: 87243"><p>The front screw is the only one that could be too long and would not be immediately obvious, as it would torque down on the barrel tennon. If any of the other ones were too long, they would be locking up the bolt or not allowing it to go in the action, as the only thing for them to torque down on would be the bolt/bolt lug itself. Always make sure the front one isn't too long though, as is being stated. </p><p></p><p>The best solutions have been stated already. #8 screws, pin, and epoxy. I have epoxied in the past and then removed rails, it is not hard. On my 9 lb .338 Norma Mag, I opened screws up to #8 and bedded/epoxied my 1 piece DNZ mount in place, with lock tight on the screws. Lapped the scope rings and installed the optic. I have around 150 rounds fired with zero issues.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="codyadams, post: 1883649, member: 87243"] The front screw is the only one that could be too long and would not be immediately obvious, as it would torque down on the barrel tennon. If any of the other ones were too long, they would be locking up the bolt or not allowing it to go in the action, as the only thing for them to torque down on would be the bolt/bolt lug itself. Always make sure the front one isn't too long though, as is being stated. The best solutions have been stated already. #8 screws, pin, and epoxy. I have epoxied in the past and then removed rails, it is not hard. On my 9 lb .338 Norma Mag, I opened screws up to #8 and bedded/epoxied my 1 piece DNZ mount in place, with lock tight on the screws. Lapped the scope rings and installed the optic. I have around 150 rounds fired with zero issues. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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sheared base screws
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