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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
sheared base screws
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<blockquote data-quote="parshal" data-source="post: 1883612" data-attributes="member: 605"><p>All suggestions here are certainly fixes. Before I pinned or tapped for 8-40 I'd check your screw length to be 100% certain they are not too long. If they are a fraction too long and the rail is minutely loose the screws can easily break. You can bed the rail to ensure it's got 100% contact as well if you don't want to glue it to the action. Try those two things first then go shoot. Check the torque after a few rounds and see if it's loosening. If it is, the next step is to glue it to the action (heat will easily remove it), pin it or move to 8-40 screws or some combination of that. I have drilled/tapped for 8-40 myself on the mill but I'd still try the other stuff first before I started drilling. 6-48 screws have been used for a very long time so they do work if they fit correctly.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="parshal, post: 1883612, member: 605"] All suggestions here are certainly fixes. Before I pinned or tapped for 8-40 I'd check your screw length to be 100% certain they are not too long. If they are a fraction too long and the rail is minutely loose the screws can easily break. You can bed the rail to ensure it's got 100% contact as well if you don't want to glue it to the action. Try those two things first then go shoot. Check the torque after a few rounds and see if it's loosening. If it is, the next step is to glue it to the action (heat will easily remove it), pin it or move to 8-40 screws or some combination of that. I have drilled/tapped for 8-40 myself on the mill but I'd still try the other stuff first before I started drilling. 6-48 screws have been used for a very long time so they do work if they fit correctly. [/QUOTE]
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sheared base screws
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