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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
sheared base screws
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<blockquote data-quote="25WSM" data-source="post: 1883406" data-attributes="member: 38048"><p>I would measure the distance the screw holes are and the holes in the base. If the holes are not perfectly aligned it will put stress on the screws to the side. 8-40 screws are pretty tough. I don't know why they even use 6-48 screws to begin with. With scopes getting heavier and rifles lighter the little baby 6-48s are just not enough. When I bed my bases I only let the compound stick to the rail. I wax the receiver. I never use loctite on my screws just a little bolt grease. They get way tighter with the same torque applied. Think about head studs in an engine that use a special lube so they tighten properly. A pin or 2 would surely help on heavy recoiling rifles or real heavy scopes. And some one else mentioned pushing your rings forward on the base before you tighten them. If you don't your scope will start to move forward on the base during firing and when it gets to the stop point it hits it hard and that can break screws also. Just remember barreled action gets pulled back before tightening and scopes get pushed forward before tightening. If you have twist in mounts disregard. Hope all this info everybody gave you helps.</p><p>Shep</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="25WSM, post: 1883406, member: 38048"] I would measure the distance the screw holes are and the holes in the base. If the holes are not perfectly aligned it will put stress on the screws to the side. 8-40 screws are pretty tough. I don't know why they even use 6-48 screws to begin with. With scopes getting heavier and rifles lighter the little baby 6-48s are just not enough. When I bed my bases I only let the compound stick to the rail. I wax the receiver. I never use loctite on my screws just a little bolt grease. They get way tighter with the same torque applied. Think about head studs in an engine that use a special lube so they tighten properly. A pin or 2 would surely help on heavy recoiling rifles or real heavy scopes. And some one else mentioned pushing your rings forward on the base before you tighten them. If you don't your scope will start to move forward on the base during firing and when it gets to the stop point it hits it hard and that can break screws also. Just remember barreled action gets pulled back before tightening and scopes get pushed forward before tightening. If you have twist in mounts disregard. Hope all this info everybody gave you helps. Shep [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
sheared base screws
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