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Shear grinding Lathe tools
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 1470012" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I'm thinking your referring to actually cutting the metal of the main body, rather than simply pushing it off like carbide. Of course you can actually push the metal off with high speed as well. My very first tools were simply Gorham AA and low end Rex, and I was taught the simplest grinding method. When using them, we rarely got past 300 rpm on a 3" diameter. Did ok on most steels, and brass. Ampco was an issue. Pretreat steels actually cut well. Then I got into some 330 stainless steel. I could get about twenty inches of cut and the cutting edge was gone. At lunch I called the Old Man and ask what was going wrong? He said tool pressure was causing heat, and then work hardening the part. Had me grind up a new tool that just had a slot ontop with a knife edge and maybe ten degrees clearance. Used a Rex 95 tool, and he said if it didn't hold up to get a Vasco Supreme blank. What I soon discovered was that excessive tool pressure leads to excessive inaccuracy. Fast forward to cutting threads on some really nasty stuff. That would be Air Die and some Graphmo. The stuff literally laughed at me and my generic thread cutting process! Put one of the junk pieces in my pocket and made a stop on the way home. I was laughed at! He goes back to a room and brings out this green plastic tackle box. Opens it and hands me three or four tool bits, and said to try these. On a piece of paper he wrote the cutting speeds in surface speed (new to me), and hands me a Machinist Handbook plus another little book of formulas. Then he writes down a formula for mixing a cutting fluid. Bacon grease, Sulphur, and a couple now outlawed goodies. I read the little book and a couple chapters over the weekend, and I'm ready. On the job I changed everything, and the threads came out a satin silver color. On the shadow graph they were a work of art. No fuzz or distortion like carbide. Then I find out it was all a joke as they always planned on grinding the threads after heat treat! So now Howard wants to know how I cut the threads, as they didn't know how.</p><p></p><p>What I learned was that tool pressure becomes your enemy real fast. Heat build up eats tools, but there are ways to get past that. You want the heat in the chip string, and not in the part. Tool pressure in small parts becomes a major issue, and leads to inaccuracy. Yet sometimes pressure is just part of the process (cutting a radius with one pass) </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 1470012, member: 25383"] I'm thinking your referring to actually cutting the metal of the main body, rather than simply pushing it off like carbide. Of course you can actually push the metal off with high speed as well. My very first tools were simply Gorham AA and low end Rex, and I was taught the simplest grinding method. When using them, we rarely got past 300 rpm on a 3" diameter. Did ok on most steels, and brass. Ampco was an issue. Pretreat steels actually cut well. Then I got into some 330 stainless steel. I could get about twenty inches of cut and the cutting edge was gone. At lunch I called the Old Man and ask what was going wrong? He said tool pressure was causing heat, and then work hardening the part. Had me grind up a new tool that just had a slot ontop with a knife edge and maybe ten degrees clearance. Used a Rex 95 tool, and he said if it didn't hold up to get a Vasco Supreme blank. What I soon discovered was that excessive tool pressure leads to excessive inaccuracy. Fast forward to cutting threads on some really nasty stuff. That would be Air Die and some Graphmo. The stuff literally laughed at me and my generic thread cutting process! Put one of the junk pieces in my pocket and made a stop on the way home. I was laughed at! He goes back to a room and brings out this green plastic tackle box. Opens it and hands me three or four tool bits, and said to try these. On a piece of paper he wrote the cutting speeds in surface speed (new to me), and hands me a Machinist Handbook plus another little book of formulas. Then he writes down a formula for mixing a cutting fluid. Bacon grease, Sulphur, and a couple now outlawed goodies. I read the little book and a couple chapters over the weekend, and I'm ready. On the job I changed everything, and the threads came out a satin silver color. On the shadow graph they were a work of art. No fuzz or distortion like carbide. Then I find out it was all a joke as they always planned on grinding the threads after heat treat! So now Howard wants to know how I cut the threads, as they didn't know how. What I learned was that tool pressure becomes your enemy real fast. Heat build up eats tools, but there are ways to get past that. You want the heat in the chip string, and not in the part. Tool pressure in small parts becomes a major issue, and leads to inaccuracy. Yet sometimes pressure is just part of the process (cutting a radius with one pass) gary [/QUOTE]
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