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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Setting neck tension with expander mandrel and bushing die questions
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<blockquote data-quote="Blackhawk" data-source="post: 1883608" data-attributes="member: 105459"><p>Perhaps I need to explain further.</p><p>I myself neck turn only virgin brass.</p><p>To that end I will wet tumble in steel pin media for 1 1/2 hours after performing the initial deprime F.l. sizing and establishing the correct shoulder bump of - .002" using the caliber specific Redding Body Die and Competition Shell Holder Set.</p><p>Next I will dry my brass in a case dryer set at 104 degrees for 1 hour.</p><p>Finally I am ready to anneal.</p><p>I do this for the following reasons. I want to prevent any residue left over from the neck turning cutting oil that I use from imbedding itself into the brass case necks during the annealing process, where the brass temperature will reach 760 degrees. (determined using High Temperature Templaq)</p><p>To that end I start with brass that is as close to pristine as I can get it.</p><p>I myself do not object to the slight brownish - blue decolorization that the annealing process yields.</p><p>On the contrary it will serve as a visual reminder that these case have been annealed. What does bother me (perhaps a little anal) is the small marks left on the case necks even after turning under power. I have found that wet tumbling and drying before annealing will remove , or almost remove all of these marks.</p><p>This to me results in a more esthetically pleasing brass.</p><p>After I anneal, I will again run my clean cases through my FL bushing die in order to reestablish the correct neck tension. (remembering that this step is only done one time on Virgin Brass only and this extra step need not be performed again)</p><p>I will finish handloading as per the norm , making certain to keep a constant neck tension and jump dimension as I seat my bullets. All this is determined by both the case neck s I.D. & O.D.</p><p>Next I post size my completed round and then check my T.I.R. and chambering functionality.</p><p><em>Anything more than .0005" bullet runout is considered by me to be to excessive & will be corrected using my Horandy Concentricity Tool.</em></p><p><em>My normal accepted runout is .0002" - .0005" after adjustment , and many times no adjustment at all is required using the concentricity tool.</em></p><p><strong><em> This will allow me the best alignment possible between bullet , chamber , and lands. (circle , within a circle , within a circle concept )</em></strong></p><p>There are many ways to obtain your best T.I.R.</p><p>The way in which I do it does not require a case neck reamer, not that it may be needed , I just do not find the need to use one at this juncture. This dose not rule out the fact that latter on I may entertain that notion.</p><p>My particular method has proven itself with the low ES & SD numbers that I have obtained via my Magneto Speed V3 during the many hours spent in load development, ladder testing and the completion thereof.</p><p><strong><em> As stated earlier neck tension is only one of the keys in obtaining the most accurate loads possible. However it is one of the most crucial for maintaining consistency as well as accuracy !</em></strong></p><p><em><strong>Additionally accuracy is not a given it must be created and refined . </strong></em></p><p><em><strong>Therein lies the beauty of tailoring your handloads for optimum performance and not relying entirely on factory </strong></em><strong><em>ammunition.</em></strong></p><p> <strong><em>Just my 2 cents worth!</em></strong></p><p>Hope this will help your understanding my why and how's ?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blackhawk, post: 1883608, member: 105459"] Perhaps I need to explain further. I myself neck turn only virgin brass. To that end I will wet tumble in steel pin media for 1 1/2 hours after performing the initial deprime F.l. sizing and establishing the correct shoulder bump of - .002" using the caliber specific Redding Body Die and Competition Shell Holder Set. Next I will dry my brass in a case dryer set at 104 degrees for 1 hour. Finally I am ready to anneal. I do this for the following reasons. I want to prevent any residue left over from the neck turning cutting oil that I use from imbedding itself into the brass case necks during the annealing process, where the brass temperature will reach 760 degrees. (determined using High Temperature Templaq) To that end I start with brass that is as close to pristine as I can get it. I myself do not object to the slight brownish - blue decolorization that the annealing process yields. On the contrary it will serve as a visual reminder that these case have been annealed. What does bother me (perhaps a little anal) is the small marks left on the case necks even after turning under power. I have found that wet tumbling and drying before annealing will remove , or almost remove all of these marks. This to me results in a more esthetically pleasing brass. After I anneal, I will again run my clean cases through my FL bushing die in order to reestablish the correct neck tension. (remembering that this step is only done one time on Virgin Brass only and this extra step need not be performed again) I will finish handloading as per the norm , making certain to keep a constant neck tension and jump dimension as I seat my bullets. All this is determined by both the case neck s I.D. & O.D. Next I post size my completed round and then check my T.I.R. and chambering functionality. [I]Anything more than .0005" bullet runout is considered by me to be to excessive & will be corrected using my Horandy Concentricity Tool. My normal accepted runout is .0002" - .0005" after adjustment , and many times no adjustment at all is required using the concentricity tool.[/I] [B][I] This will allow me the best alignment possible between bullet , chamber , and lands. (circle , within a circle , within a circle concept )[/I][/B] There are many ways to obtain your best T.I.R. The way in which I do it does not require a case neck reamer, not that it may be needed , I just do not find the need to use one at this juncture. This dose not rule out the fact that latter on I may entertain that notion. My particular method has proven itself with the low ES & SD numbers that I have obtained via my Magneto Speed V3 during the many hours spent in load development, ladder testing and the completion thereof. [B][I] As stated earlier neck tension is only one of the keys in obtaining the most accurate loads possible. However it is one of the most crucial for maintaining consistency as well as accuracy ![/I][/B] [I][B]Additionally accuracy is not a given it must be created and refined . Therein lies the beauty of tailoring your handloads for optimum performance and not relying entirely on factory [/B][/I][B][I]ammunition. Just my 2 cents worth![/I][/B] Hope this will help your understanding my why and how's ? [/QUOTE]
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Setting neck tension with expander mandrel and bushing die questions
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