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The Basics, Starting Out
Semi auto advice needed
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<blockquote data-quote="Unionsparky46" data-source="post: 2715954" data-attributes="member: 125736"><p>Just curious if the rounds fired out of the semi are new - never fired. If not then are you full sizing them? I was a fanatic about neck sizing my brass for my bolt guns until I found some other tricks. My first stop would be if the brass is new to headspace it. Anyone can assemble an AR platform and for the most part be good. Sometimes you get a flyer from the factory but it's absolutely a good idea to check. If its good then you don't have to worry about missing fingers!!</p><p></p><p> So if it's good on the headspace, buy a headspace gauge and a shoulder bump gauge. I used to be a fan of the 1/8 turn until my brother couldn't close his bolt with a round I loaded for him. Those two gauges will allow you to get every cartridge at least back to saami spec. Once you have a cartridge to use as a comparison, you'll be able to set your Full Length die up. </p><p></p><p> For this you'll want to get a good bushing die set. I use Redding comps as they're easily available. Other manufacturers like whidden make awesome stuff too and you can call/email them with questions. Once you get all that set up, I would bump the shoulders back at least by 1 thou then take it no further than 2 thou. Some rifle actually want more but that's where a lot of caution comes into play. </p><p></p><p> My brothers 300 win brand new from the factory hated all of my full length hand loads (once fired brass only) from my 1995 REM 700. This is how I found out how to properly measure headspace, case length, shoulder length, COAL and olgive. This is especially important after annealing. With a primer falling out seems like actually you might have a brass issue. If there's enough pressure to pop a primer out of its seat, usually the gun will pop with it,….. a lot of pressure to pop a primer out against a metal surface.</p><p></p><p> Only a few things hamper the extraction of a round in an AR platform. If the round chambers and extracts before you've fired it then we're off to a good start. Buffer tube springs have alot to do with this as well, kind of weird I know. Too heavy or light of spring rate will not allow extraction. Charging handles not transferring the gas to the right proportion, improper sized gas tube or worn out extractors will all cause this too. </p><p></p><p> In summation, all of that brass checking will at least make you confident in your brass. Basically, takes the liability off your plate and gives you a little reprieve. If it all checks out then it's time to play with the rifle. Head spacing is extremely important and a go/no go is a great start. Hope my mini novel helps!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Unionsparky46, post: 2715954, member: 125736"] Just curious if the rounds fired out of the semi are new - never fired. If not then are you full sizing them? I was a fanatic about neck sizing my brass for my bolt guns until I found some other tricks. My first stop would be if the brass is new to headspace it. Anyone can assemble an AR platform and for the most part be good. Sometimes you get a flyer from the factory but it’s absolutely a good idea to check. If its good then you don’t have to worry about missing fingers!! So if it’s good on the headspace, buy a headspace gauge and a shoulder bump gauge. I used to be a fan of the 1/8 turn until my brother couldn’t close his bolt with a round I loaded for him. Those two gauges will allow you to get every cartridge at least back to saami spec. Once you have a cartridge to use as a comparison, you’ll be able to set your Full Length die up. For this you’ll want to get a good bushing die set. I use Redding comps as they’re easily available. Other manufacturers like whidden make awesome stuff too and you can call/email them with questions. Once you get all that set up, I would bump the shoulders back at least by 1 thou then take it no further than 2 thou. Some rifle actually want more but that’s where a lot of caution comes into play. My brothers 300 win brand new from the factory hated all of my full length hand loads (once fired brass only) from my 1995 REM 700. This is how I found out how to properly measure headspace, case length, shoulder length, COAL and olgive. This is especially important after annealing. With a primer falling out seems like actually you might have a brass issue. If there’s enough pressure to pop a primer out of its seat, usually the gun will pop with it,….. a lot of pressure to pop a primer out against a metal surface. Only a few things hamper the extraction of a round in an AR platform. If the round chambers and extracts before you’ve fired it then we’re off to a good start. Buffer tube springs have alot to do with this as well, kind of weird I know. Too heavy or light of spring rate will not allow extraction. Charging handles not transferring the gas to the right proportion, improper sized gas tube or worn out extractors will all cause this too. In summation, all of that brass checking will at least make you confident in your brass. Basically, takes the liability off your plate and gives you a little reprieve. If it all checks out then it’s time to play with the rifle. Head spacing is extremely important and a go/no go is a great start. Hope my mini novel helps! [/QUOTE]
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