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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Scopes mechanical zero
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<blockquote data-quote="LouBoyd" data-source="post: 422923" data-attributes="member: 9253"><p>I like to start by zeroing a scope, not by counting clicks from each end of their range but by putting the scope on a box with two V grooves cut in the top and rotating the scope while watching a moderately distant object, then adjusting the knobs so the cross hairs don't move on the background. That sets the line of sight though the cross hairs concentric with the tube of the scope. It's easy to get it to the nearest click which is adequate. Counting clicks from each end is NOT the same. Not all scopes have symmetrical adjustment range, particularly in elevation. I keep a wooden cigar box just for that purpose. </p><p></p><p>Then I mount the scope on the rifle, (with or without a wedge base) and don't change the knobs. When I take the rifle to zero it I calculate (most any ballistic program will do) what the scope setting should be and dial that in to the scopes knobs. It usually starts out close to expected zero. If it doesn't I stop and figure out why. It's a quick check that the rail and rings were installed correctly and that the rifle is shooting concentric with the action. </p><p></p><p>You don't have to do all that, but it doesn't take much extra effort and can save a lot of time trouble shooting a rifle later. It also can save a few shots initially getting on target. It's possible to miss a 50 yard target completely with a "long range" scope which isn't zeroed. How do I know that ;-)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="LouBoyd, post: 422923, member: 9253"] I like to start by zeroing a scope, not by counting clicks from each end of their range but by putting the scope on a box with two V grooves cut in the top and rotating the scope while watching a moderately distant object, then adjusting the knobs so the cross hairs don't move on the background. That sets the line of sight though the cross hairs concentric with the tube of the scope. It's easy to get it to the nearest click which is adequate. Counting clicks from each end is NOT the same. Not all scopes have symmetrical adjustment range, particularly in elevation. I keep a wooden cigar box just for that purpose. Then I mount the scope on the rifle, (with or without a wedge base) and don't change the knobs. When I take the rifle to zero it I calculate (most any ballistic program will do) what the scope setting should be and dial that in to the scopes knobs. It usually starts out close to expected zero. If it doesn't I stop and figure out why. It's a quick check that the rail and rings were installed correctly and that the rifle is shooting concentric with the action. You don't have to do all that, but it doesn't take much extra effort and can save a lot of time trouble shooting a rifle later. It also can save a few shots initially getting on target. It's possible to miss a 50 yard target completely with a "long range" scope which isn't zeroed. How do I know that ;-) [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Scopes mechanical zero
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