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Scope Ring Selection Help
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<blockquote data-quote="Capt RB" data-source="post: 1514332" data-attributes="member: 85987"><p>+1 on burris signature rings. Bed a good rail with epoxy and put in the inserts for the amount of correction you will need to get to the elevation correction for that max distance you plan to shoot. In your 7 mag that would be 25moa for 1000yds 15 for 700 10 for 500. This way your reticle will be in the center of the optical system for optimum performance. If the reticle is not centered your more likely to not correct the parralax completely out of the image and cause a miss for what seems to be an unknown reason. Shooting inside of your max distance your correction can be off but it isn't compounded by distance.</p><p> If you put a rail on with correction ie a 20moa rail only put 5moa in the rings max. One advantage would be if the scope is centered on the windage but shooting left or right a bunch. You can use the inserts to correct that to again keep the turret centered.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Capt RB, post: 1514332, member: 85987"] +1 on burris signature rings. Bed a good rail with epoxy and put in the inserts for the amount of correction you will need to get to the elevation correction for that max distance you plan to shoot. In your 7 mag that would be 25moa for 1000yds 15 for 700 10 for 500. This way your reticle will be in the center of the optical system for optimum performance. If the reticle is not centered your more likely to not correct the parralax completely out of the image and cause a miss for what seems to be an unknown reason. Shooting inside of your max distance your correction can be off but it isn't compounded by distance. If you put a rail on with correction ie a 20moa rail only put 5moa in the rings max. One advantage would be if the scope is centered on the windage but shooting left or right a bunch. You can use the inserts to correct that to again keep the turret centered. [/QUOTE]
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