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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Savage Bedding Tricks
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 423304" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>your post is interesting! I did three Savages a few years back that were not pillar bedded from the factory, but were the laminated varmit stock. I made a step drill with a long pilot to use as a guide for drill the hole in the stock for the pillars. I made my pillars out of 4150 pretreat steel that had .06" grooves machine in the O.D. It seems that we're doing the pillars in a very similar way. I do my forends vastly different than most anybody else I've seen (especially in the recoil lug area).</p><p> </p><p> One problem a few folks in the past have had with porosity in the bedding is actually caused by their release agent. When you completely degrease the action you need to let it set under a lamp for a day or so. This gets rid of any retained solvents left in the metal surface. I finally started using Johnson's Pledge per one of the manufacturers info. I use three coats sprayed at alternating 90 degree angles (90, 180, and 270 degrees). I use Super Belzonia for the recoil lug area that has steel shot mixed in with it, but for the rest I use nothing but Hardemans low shrinkage epoxy. Everything comes out very tight, and in a couple case I had to actually rub it slightly with some 400 grit paper. But the real trick with a Savage is to free float the tang area and get the recoil lug very tight (throw away the factory recoil lug before you even start). Lastly if your doing a plastic stock; you really need to beef up the forend with bedded steel rods or at least fill in all the voids with Super Belzonia. </p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 423304, member: 25383"] your post is interesting! I did three Savages a few years back that were not pillar bedded from the factory, but were the laminated varmit stock. I made a step drill with a long pilot to use as a guide for drill the hole in the stock for the pillars. I made my pillars out of 4150 pretreat steel that had .06" grooves machine in the O.D. It seems that we're doing the pillars in a very similar way. I do my forends vastly different than most anybody else I've seen (especially in the recoil lug area). One problem a few folks in the past have had with porosity in the bedding is actually caused by their release agent. When you completely degrease the action you need to let it set under a lamp for a day or so. This gets rid of any retained solvents left in the metal surface. I finally started using Johnson's Pledge per one of the manufacturers info. I use three coats sprayed at alternating 90 degree angles (90, 180, and 270 degrees). I use Super Belzonia for the recoil lug area that has steel shot mixed in with it, but for the rest I use nothing but Hardemans low shrinkage epoxy. Everything comes out very tight, and in a couple case I had to actually rub it slightly with some 400 grit paper. But the real trick with a Savage is to free float the tang area and get the recoil lug very tight (throw away the factory recoil lug before you even start). Lastly if your doing a plastic stock; you really need to beef up the forend with bedded steel rods or at least fill in all the voids with Super Belzonia. gary [/QUOTE]
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