Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Sabot ?
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="edge" data-source="post: 514289" data-attributes="member: 5030"><p>Here is cutaway view of an Accubond ML sabot:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/edgeco2/338-2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Most of my sabots for the ML are PVC type II which is corrosive due to small amounts of chlorine gas given off when fired! The bore needs to be cleaned and oiled after every shooting session as a result which is a pain....but these have been the most accurate for me.</p><p></p><p>If I were molding sabots then some sort of Nylon or PET or some combination would most likely be my choice. Since I machine each sabot individually, sawcut the petals, and debur by hand I need a very different set of specs for my sabot material.</p><p></p><p>You need a material that is strong enough to not blow a hole in the sabot, a material that is rigid enough to keep the bullet centered in the bore, and will separate cleanly from the bullet in a nearly identical manner every time.</p><p>There are two main types of sabots, one type stays intact like most soft ML sabots and open like a flower. The other type like mine and those used by the depleted uranium anti tank shells separate into pieces are made from very rigid material and these pieces carry a lot of energy.</p><p>The base of my sabot often travels a hundred yards and has about 400 ft/lbs of energy at the muzzle so you need to watch out for bystanders and ricochets!</p><p></p><p>edge.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="edge, post: 514289, member: 5030"] Here is cutaway view of an Accubond ML sabot: [IMG]http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f126/edgeco2/338-2.jpg[/IMG] Most of my sabots for the ML are PVC type II which is corrosive due to small amounts of chlorine gas given off when fired! The bore needs to be cleaned and oiled after every shooting session as a result which is a pain....but these have been the most accurate for me. If I were molding sabots then some sort of Nylon or PET or some combination would most likely be my choice. Since I machine each sabot individually, sawcut the petals, and debur by hand I need a very different set of specs for my sabot material. You need a material that is strong enough to not blow a hole in the sabot, a material that is rigid enough to keep the bullet centered in the bore, and will separate cleanly from the bullet in a nearly identical manner every time. There are two main types of sabots, one type stays intact like most soft ML sabots and open like a flower. The other type like mine and those used by the depleted uranium anti tank shells separate into pieces are made from very rigid material and these pieces carry a lot of energy. The base of my sabot often travels a hundred yards and has about 400 ft/lbs of energy at the muzzle so you need to watch out for bystanders and ricochets! edge. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Sabot ?
Top