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Ruger No. 1 for a Long Range Rifle
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<blockquote data-quote="Buffalobob" data-source="post: 62905" data-attributes="member: 8"><p>We may have to track "hardcase" down to get his secret shim info. In the mean time here is what got me down to 0.7 MOA @ 1200 yds.</p><p>Take a 12 guage shotgun paper hull and cut the head off, then open it up length wise. Then cut again lenght wise a strip that will cradle about the bottom third of the barrel but not half becasue you will not want any side pressure on the barrel. Then cut off about one inch of this strip and place it loosely in the fore end as far out as poosible so that it cradles the exact bottom of the barrel. Tighten up the forend screw good and tight. Load up several dump truck loads of your favorite bullets. Get a screw driver, some towels to pad your shoulder and the foreend and go to the range.</p><p>Use one towel folded several times to place over the sandbags to soften up the contact of the fore end. Ignore the laughter of the benchrest shooters. Shoot a couple of five round groups to settle in the barrel in the cradle made by the paper hull and get sighted in again.</p><p>Now then, begin backing out the foreend screw one quarter turn at a time shooting five round groups looking for the sweet spot. If you are lucky it will come at about a half turn out. Obviuosly you can not go hiunting with a very loose fore end screw, (it is my observation that many hunters have a few loose screws) so it is important to find the sweeet spot before backing the screw out too far. Once you have found the sweet spot do not do what I did and fail to write down a good description of where it is. The reason for this, is that the screw will slowly shoot looser and you will hunt out in the rain and have to dissenble the gun. So sooner or later the screw has to be readjusted back to where you set it.</p><p></p><p>If you think all of this is fun, then just try sneaking one of your wife's good towels into your hunting back pack for the fore end rest. Lots of deer and antelope do not like to stick around while you fumble with your towel to get it under the fore end. On the other hand, if you wish to amuse your frends, you can try shooting at an antelope at 400 yards while resting the fore end on top of a fence post without your towel. Having tried those tricks, I turned to man's best frieind - Duck tape. Go and find a good firm sponge at the super market make sure it is firm but springy and then duck tape this to the bottom of the fore end. Do not let this get wet. When hunting season is over you can then amuse all of us on this forum by describing how to get the duct tape adhesive off of the foreend without ruining the finish. At the moment I cannot remember what I used.</p><p></p><p>Seriously, it sounds like the shim and the Hick's accurizer and the paper hull all work on the same principle of applying a pressure point on the bottom of the barrel and a sweet spot.</p><p></p><p>Shooting a #1 is kind of like raising children, just a never ending process, full of fun and amusement.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buffalobob, post: 62905, member: 8"] We may have to track "hardcase" down to get his secret shim info. In the mean time here is what got me down to 0.7 MOA @ 1200 yds. Take a 12 guage shotgun paper hull and cut the head off, then open it up length wise. Then cut again lenght wise a strip that will cradle about the bottom third of the barrel but not half becasue you will not want any side pressure on the barrel. Then cut off about one inch of this strip and place it loosely in the fore end as far out as poosible so that it cradles the exact bottom of the barrel. Tighten up the forend screw good and tight. Load up several dump truck loads of your favorite bullets. Get a screw driver, some towels to pad your shoulder and the foreend and go to the range. Use one towel folded several times to place over the sandbags to soften up the contact of the fore end. Ignore the laughter of the benchrest shooters. Shoot a couple of five round groups to settle in the barrel in the cradle made by the paper hull and get sighted in again. Now then, begin backing out the foreend screw one quarter turn at a time shooting five round groups looking for the sweet spot. If you are lucky it will come at about a half turn out. Obviuosly you can not go hiunting with a very loose fore end screw, (it is my observation that many hunters have a few loose screws) so it is important to find the sweeet spot before backing the screw out too far. Once you have found the sweet spot do not do what I did and fail to write down a good description of where it is. The reason for this, is that the screw will slowly shoot looser and you will hunt out in the rain and have to dissenble the gun. So sooner or later the screw has to be readjusted back to where you set it. If you think all of this is fun, then just try sneaking one of your wife's good towels into your hunting back pack for the fore end rest. Lots of deer and antelope do not like to stick around while you fumble with your towel to get it under the fore end. On the other hand, if you wish to amuse your frends, you can try shooting at an antelope at 400 yards while resting the fore end on top of a fence post without your towel. Having tried those tricks, I turned to man's best frieind - Duck tape. Go and find a good firm sponge at the super market make sure it is firm but springy and then duck tape this to the bottom of the fore end. Do not let this get wet. When hunting season is over you can then amuse all of us on this forum by describing how to get the duct tape adhesive off of the foreend without ruining the finish. At the moment I cannot remember what I used. Seriously, it sounds like the shim and the Hick's accurizer and the paper hull all work on the same principle of applying a pressure point on the bottom of the barrel and a sweet spot. Shooting a #1 is kind of like raising children, just a never ending process, full of fun and amusement. [/QUOTE]
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