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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Ruger M77 Tang
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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 1879038" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>My one piece of advice with Rugers is to ALWAYS use pillars that match the 60° angle of the front screw/recoil lug and bed it tight, no wiggle room is required.</p><p>I do all Ruger M77's this way, tang and MKII's in wood stocks.</p><p>Most rifles I work on, unknown to the owner until shown, are split between the mag well cutout and trigger cutout, it is very common on Ruger stocks. This is repaired first before pillars or action bedding is performed.</p><p></p><p>Bedding this way with the barrel free floating, or the Knox form bedded as well, has always IMPROVED accuracy in the rifles I have done. I have done a few dozen over the years, and behind the tang needs to be free of ANY bedding, there must be a gap, or it will act like a wedge upon firing and will crack the stock eventually.</p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 1879038, member: 10755"] My one piece of advice with Rugers is to ALWAYS use pillars that match the 60° angle of the front screw/recoil lug and bed it tight, no wiggle room is required. I do all Ruger M77's this way, tang and MKII's in wood stocks. Most rifles I work on, unknown to the owner until shown, are split between the mag well cutout and trigger cutout, it is very common on Ruger stocks. This is repaired first before pillars or action bedding is performed. Bedding this way with the barrel free floating, or the Knox form bedded as well, has always IMPROVED accuracy in the rifles I have done. I have done a few dozen over the years, and behind the tang needs to be free of ANY bedding, there must be a gap, or it will act like a wedge upon firing and will crack the stock eventually. Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Ruger M77 Tang
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