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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Ruger m77 markii 270win
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<blockquote data-quote="MagnumManiac" data-source="post: 1523713" data-attributes="member: 10755"><p>I do lots of new Rugers, both wood and synthetic stocked models.</p><p>If you sand the barrel channel and remove the pressure lump, you MAY make the gun shoot worse if you don't address the fact that without pressure on the barrel, the ENTIRE action will sit differently in the stock! It will also affect how the screws tighten.</p><p></p><p>It is absolutely necessary on Rugers to add pillars at the SAME TIME as the recoil lug is bedded. Do both front and rear pillars at the same time, DO NOT bed the tang until later, this is your datum point to keep the action square in the stock.</p><p>I bed the pillar/recoil lug TIGHT, no clearance, as the 60 degrees of the front screw pulls rearward and when loosened, the stock doesn't bind like other straight recoil lug recesses do.</p><p>I also bed the ENTIRE length of the action when I bed the tang.</p><p>The bottom metal and action should be snug on the pillars, if the action isn't snug on the pillars, it will bend, if the bottom metal isn't snug, then it can cause issues too.</p><p></p><p>If you haven't bedded a rifle before, then Brownell's sell pillar kits with all necessary instructions including diagrams. One thing missing from their pillars are cut grooves on the shafts to create a mechanical lock with the epoxy. I suggest 1 groove .040"/1mm wide x .040"/1mm deep on the front pillar and 3 grooves the same size equidistant on the rear pillar. If the stock is split between the trigger cutout and the mag well, this is when it should be addressed. Have seen many Rugers split there, even mild kicking guns like 22-250, 243 and 25-06.</p><p></p><p>I do many new and older Rugers, everyone of them has benefitted from Timney triggers, except M77 models with the tang safety, those factory triggers work very well with minimum fuss.</p><p></p><p>Hope this points you in the right direction.</p><p></p><p>Cheers.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="MagnumManiac, post: 1523713, member: 10755"] I do lots of new Rugers, both wood and synthetic stocked models. If you sand the barrel channel and remove the pressure lump, you MAY make the gun shoot worse if you don’t address the fact that without pressure on the barrel, the ENTIRE action will sit differently in the stock! It will also affect how the screws tighten. It is absolutely necessary on Rugers to add pillars at the SAME TIME as the recoil lug is bedded. Do both front and rear pillars at the same time, DO NOT bed the tang until later, this is your datum point to keep the action square in the stock. I bed the pillar/recoil lug TIGHT, no clearance, as the 60 degrees of the front screw pulls rearward and when loosened, the stock doesn’t bind like other straight recoil lug recesses do. I also bed the ENTIRE length of the action when I bed the tang. The bottom metal and action should be snug on the pillars, if the action isn’t snug on the pillars, it will bend, if the bottom metal isn’t snug, then it can cause issues too. If you haven’t bedded a rifle before, then Brownell’s sell pillar kits with all necessary instructions including diagrams. One thing missing from their pillars are cut grooves on the shafts to create a mechanical lock with the epoxy. I suggest 1 groove .040”/1mm wide x .040”/1mm deep on the front pillar and 3 grooves the same size equidistant on the rear pillar. If the stock is split between the trigger cutout and the mag well, this is when it should be addressed. Have seen many Rugers split there, even mild kicking guns like 22-250, 243 and 25-06. I do many new and older Rugers, everyone of them has benefitted from Timney triggers, except M77 models with the tang safety, those factory triggers work very well with minimum fuss. Hope this points you in the right direction. Cheers. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
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Ruger m77 markii 270win
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