Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
Articles
Latest reviews
Author list
Classifieds
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Rifle Modifications
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="westcliffe01" data-source="post: 786879" data-attributes="member: 35183"><p>Timney are great triggers, but I had never heard of one that price. When I was looking (about 2 years ago) there seemed to be nothing under $200 except the Shilen.</p><p></p><p>So you have a synthetic stock. Well as far as stocks go, one thing you have at your advantage is that you own one of the most populous bolt actions in the world. So you have a LOT of aftermarket stocks to choose from. Having said that, you can make a very substantial improvement to the Remington stock. The first thing is to GENEROUSLY free float the barrel (allowing for deflection when in the shooting position. You want to use a playing card to do the free float test, not a dollar bill. $ bills only work on stiff stocks which the 700 tupperware is not. My 700 SPS stock was actually warped and I had to take 1/8" off one side to get it free floated. Go to the hardware store and get a 3/4" hardwood dowel 2 feet long and the coarsest belt sander belt they have. Cut the belt and glue it lengthwise onto the hardwood dowel and you have a free floating tool that will waste no time. Just check your progress and verify which area is binding/close frequently.</p><p></p><p>As far as bedding goes, remember the main problem is that the bedding compound needs some thickness to have any strength. So in any area where it needs to be strong, you put a 1/8" round nose router bit in your dremel and whittle away some material to allow for the appropriate thickness of bedding compound. You want to allow enough contact area with the stock so that the barreled action stays in proper alignment with the stock.</p><p></p><p>People seem to use strange things to do bedding with, but remember that it is not the epoxy that has structural strength, it is the re-inforcement. So add either cotton flox or chopped fiberglass or even chopped carbon fiber to your epoxy. Those fibers will provide the strength of the bedding and the resin bonds them together and to the stock. Micro balloons and other powder type fillers are used for fairing work, not structural ! Look at this page <a href="http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Fillers/fillers.html" target="_blank">http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Fillers/fillers.html</a> at the fiber products. Fiberglass, carbon and Kevlar. The shorter the fibers the easier it will fit into confined spaces. It will seem weird but in modern work one tries to use the same weight of reinforcement as resin or more.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="westcliffe01, post: 786879, member: 35183"] Timney are great triggers, but I had never heard of one that price. When I was looking (about 2 years ago) there seemed to be nothing under $200 except the Shilen. So you have a synthetic stock. Well as far as stocks go, one thing you have at your advantage is that you own one of the most populous bolt actions in the world. So you have a LOT of aftermarket stocks to choose from. Having said that, you can make a very substantial improvement to the Remington stock. The first thing is to GENEROUSLY free float the barrel (allowing for deflection when in the shooting position. You want to use a playing card to do the free float test, not a dollar bill. $ bills only work on stiff stocks which the 700 tupperware is not. My 700 SPS stock was actually warped and I had to take 1/8" off one side to get it free floated. Go to the hardware store and get a 3/4" hardwood dowel 2 feet long and the coarsest belt sander belt they have. Cut the belt and glue it lengthwise onto the hardwood dowel and you have a free floating tool that will waste no time. Just check your progress and verify which area is binding/close frequently. As far as bedding goes, remember the main problem is that the bedding compound needs some thickness to have any strength. So in any area where it needs to be strong, you put a 1/8" round nose router bit in your dremel and whittle away some material to allow for the appropriate thickness of bedding compound. You want to allow enough contact area with the stock so that the barreled action stays in proper alignment with the stock. People seem to use strange things to do bedding with, but remember that it is not the epoxy that has structural strength, it is the re-inforcement. So add either cotton flox or chopped fiberglass or even chopped carbon fiber to your epoxy. Those fibers will provide the strength of the bedding and the resin bonds them together and to the stock. Micro balloons and other powder type fillers are used for fairing work, not structural ! Look at this page [URL]http://www.fiberglasssupply.com/Product_Catalog/Fillers/fillers.html[/URL] at the fiber products. Fiberglass, carbon and Kevlar. The shorter the fibers the easier it will fit into confined spaces. It will seem weird but in modern work one tries to use the same weight of reinforcement as resin or more. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Rifle Modifications
Top