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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Resizing: case life and accuracy???
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<blockquote data-quote="Kevin Thomas" data-source="post: 490614" data-attributes="member: 15748"><p>The Wilson chamber gages, the RCBS Precision Mic, the Sinclair bump gage or the Redding Instant Indicator all allow you to see the same thing; how much you're moving the shoulder back. For a bolt gun, even moving back .001" should be enough to allow free and easy chambering. Going as far as .002" gives a little more insurance of this and still won't overwork the brass. And that's what you're looking for here.</p><p> </p><p>That's not your problem at the moment though. It sounds like it's the expander overworking the necks, and that's why you're losing cases to cracking. You want to minimize this to just what's needed to provide good neck tension, and no more. </p><p> </p><p>I like the bushing dies, as I've mentioned. I also full length size, almost religiously. Very rarely use neck sizing as I see no real advantage to it, and it has an inherent potential for problems. My process may vary a bit from one application to the next but basically it goes;</p><p> </p><p>Decap the cases and inspect. Clean them at this time, whichever method you chose to use. I've used tumblers forever, and recently dabbled with sonic cleaners (not terribly impressed thus far). May try the pin media next.</p><p> </p><p>I resize using any of several lubes (Imperial is my favorite) with a F/L bushing die. The bushing size is normally .002" under whatever the O.D. of a loaded round is at the neck. Measure, subtract .002" and that's probably the bushing you want to start with. I do use an expander for much of my resizing, but with this method, you'll just barely feel the inside of the neck kiss the button as it passes. I like carbide buttons, but even there a little lube is a good thing. Use one of the gages mentioned to seet the sizing die up to assure you aren't bumping the shoulder more than what's needed, and you're set.</p><p> </p><p>Remove the lube (may even tumble briefly again) and you're in business. Trimming is a variable, and it will depend on what I'm loading as to how it gets done. Just monitor the case length, and trim as needed. </p><p> </p><p>This is a basic overview, and gets modified a bit depending on what sort of loading I'm doing. A bit different for gas guns, hunting rifles, target rifles (bolt guns), etc.. The main thing to solving your issue though, is to not overwork that neck.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Kevin Thomas, post: 490614, member: 15748"] The Wilson chamber gages, the RCBS Precision Mic, the Sinclair bump gage or the Redding Instant Indicator all allow you to see the same thing; how much you're moving the shoulder back. For a bolt gun, even moving back .001" should be enough to allow free and easy chambering. Going as far as .002" gives a little more insurance of this and still won't overwork the brass. And that's what you're looking for here. That's not your problem at the moment though. It sounds like it's the expander overworking the necks, and that's why you're losing cases to cracking. You want to minimize this to just what's needed to provide good neck tension, and no more. I like the bushing dies, as I've mentioned. I also full length size, almost religiously. Very rarely use neck sizing as I see no real advantage to it, and it has an inherent potential for problems. My process may vary a bit from one application to the next but basically it goes; Decap the cases and inspect. Clean them at this time, whichever method you chose to use. I've used tumblers forever, and recently dabbled with sonic cleaners (not terribly impressed thus far). May try the pin media next. I resize using any of several lubes (Imperial is my favorite) with a F/L bushing die. The bushing size is normally .002" under whatever the O.D. of a loaded round is at the neck. Measure, subtract .002" and that's probably the bushing you want to start with. I do use an expander for much of my resizing, but with this method, you'll just barely feel the inside of the neck kiss the button as it passes. I like carbide buttons, but even there a little lube is a good thing. Use one of the gages mentioned to seet the sizing die up to assure you aren't bumping the shoulder more than what's needed, and you're set. Remove the lube (may even tumble briefly again) and you're in business. Trimming is a variable, and it will depend on what I'm loading as to how it gets done. Just monitor the case length, and trim as needed. This is a basic overview, and gets modified a bit depending on what sort of loading I'm doing. A bit different for gas guns, hunting rifles, target rifles (bolt guns), etc.. The main thing to solving your issue though, is to not overwork that neck. [/QUOTE]
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Resizing: case life and accuracy???
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