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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Removing Savage Muzzel Brake.
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<blockquote data-quote="barnesuser28" data-source="post: 696311" data-attributes="member: 43468"><p>On our Savage 110 fcp hs 338 Lapua , i noticed that the last 3/4"-1" of the barrel still has tooling marks. There are about 160 rounds down the tube and we did a proper brake in. I also noticed that past 1" from the muzzel i could see streaks of copper in the rifling but the area with tooling marks doesnt have any copper streaks. I am thinking the last inch of the barrel is over diameter and that is why i am getting slow velocities. (2700 fps MAX with a 280 grain bullet rather than 2750-2825 fps most guys are getting with 300 grain bullets in the same rifle) So i want to take the break off and get a better look but i am not sure how i should so it. Also, i got pressure signs at 85 grains of retumbo where most guys are going up to the 90 grain range. Sorry if this is the wrong section to post this. Thanks for any help!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="barnesuser28, post: 696311, member: 43468"] On our Savage 110 fcp hs 338 Lapua , i noticed that the last 3/4"-1" of the barrel still has tooling marks. There are about 160 rounds down the tube and we did a proper brake in. I also noticed that past 1" from the muzzel i could see streaks of copper in the rifling but the area with tooling marks doesnt have any copper streaks. I am thinking the last inch of the barrel is over diameter and that is why i am getting slow velocities. (2700 fps MAX with a 280 grain bullet rather than 2750-2825 fps most guys are getting with 300 grain bullets in the same rifle) So i want to take the break off and get a better look but i am not sure how i should so it. Also, i got pressure signs at 85 grains of retumbo where most guys are going up to the 90 grain range. Sorry if this is the wrong section to post this. Thanks for any help! [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Removing Savage Muzzel Brake.
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